The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Travel -

2007 Sep­pelt Coborra Pinot Gris LEST it be thought I find no merit in pinot gris, there are some ex­cel­lent wines made from the variety where it is grown in cool cli­mates. It comes as no sur­prise that the coolest wine re­gion on the main­land, Henty in west­ern Vic­to­ria, should re­sult in Sep­pelt’s Coborra Pinot Gris, from its Drum­borg vine­yard, of­ten com­ing top of its class. The 2007 (94 points, $25) is typ­i­cal, with mar­vel­lous in­ten­sity and thrust to its flavours of pear, ap­ple and a web of cit­rus lead­ing into a long, dry fin­ish. This is variety and ter­roir speak­ing, the wine­mak­ing lim­ited to en­sure there is no in­ter­rup­tion to that speech. To be fair, I should add that the Morn­ing­ton Penin­sula in par­tic­u­lar can pro­duce pinot gris of sim­i­lar qual­ity, if not quite the same style. James Halliday

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