From Tokyo to San Francisco, our best chefs going for a gong
GLOBAL gongs are in season this week for Aussie chefs. US magazine Food& Wine , read by a million every month, lists Sydney’s Luke Mangan ( Glass Brasserie, Salt Tokyo and South Food + Wine Bar San Francisco) among the world’s ‘‘ 10 next chef superstars’’, set to ‘‘ rock the restaurant world’’.
Food&Wine’s just-released annual Go Lists focus on the top eateries for travellers as they swoop in and out of cities. Sydney is sixth on its list of 10 best restaurant cities (behind Tokyo, Paris, New York, London and Barcelona).
And Christine Manfield’s Sydney restaurant Universal is among its 10 best new restaurants of 2008.
Mangan tells FoodDetective from Tokyo that he is already known in the US through his cooking slot on USAToday , which he has been doing for five or six years, but opening South has given him a shop window for Aussie produce.
Now that South is settling in, he is starting to think about branching out in the US, he says. More as it emerges. In an article on wine matching, Food&
magazine says that Mangan, at his San Francisco restaurant, ‘‘ shows what’s possible in antipodean flavours . . . combining a fruity Huia Vineyards New Zealand pinot gris with spicy shrimp or . . . Wynns Coonawarra Estate cabernet sauvignon with lamb’’.
In the same issue, food writer Jake Tilson visits Sydney— from fish markets to the Blue Mountains — loves its cultural diversity and ‘‘ someone who makes a difference, who doesn’t see what they do as just a job’’. Meanwhile Gibellini has taken off for a postharvest breather. www.margaretriverwine.org.au. the Yarra Valley, will co-host an autumnal southern Italian feast with Riccardo Momesso of Melbourne’s Sarti, May 18; $80 a head, food only. www.stonesoftheyarravalley.com. two-week tour of Paris and regional France in August. Visit champagne houses, Michelin-starred restaurants and luxe hotels; cooking classes alternate with stops at markets and specialist producers; all with insider know-how. It’s $11,900 a person twin share. www.frenchindulgence.com. ■ TERESA Gibellini, vineyard manager of Western Australia’s GM and G Vines, has netted this year’s Viticultural Excellence Award judged by the Margaret River Wine Industry Association. Glamorgan Estate vineyards, which supplies grapes to Vasse Felix, was GM and G’s entrant for the awards. Association chief Nick Power tells Detective the judges choose discovers Duc-Thanh Vietnamese restaurant in Cabramatta (20-22 Hughes St). www.foodandwine.com; www.lukemangan.com.au. ■ MEANWHILE, two Sydney restaurants are enshrined on the S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, just published for 2008 in London’s Restaurant magazine: Tetsuya’s and Neil Perry’s Rockpool, now Rockpool (fish). In the seven years of the list’s existence, the two restaurants have played footsie, shifting and swapping places but always there. They rub shoulders with Spain’s El Bulli (topping the list for this and the past two years), Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck (England), The French Laundry and Chez Panisse (US), and the kitchens of world names such as Gordon Ramsay, Joel Robuchon, Alain Ducasse and Nobu. www.theworlds50best.com. ■ MORE glittering prizes. Last week the International Association of Culinary Professionals announced its annual cookbook awards at a dinner in New Orleans, naming Turquoise:AChef’sTravels inTurkey , by Melbourne food identities Greg and Lucy Malouf, its international cookbook of the year, with more than 400 titles entered from Europe, Australia and South Africa. Turquoise will be released in the US later this year.
■ GREG, a regular Sunday chef at Stones of ■ STAR of Greece, a retro cafe on the cliff at Port Willunga, South Australia, is one of a slew of local restaurants that will host Chandon Supper Club on May 8. Auge, Shiki, Assaggio, The Manse and Lenzerheide are among other host restaurants. The club raises funds for Camp Quality, a nonprofit group supporting children with cancer across the country. Restaurants, special venues and private homes host dinners for 12 prepared by leading chefs and matched with Chandon and Green Point wines; diners end the evening at a joint after-party in some secret spot. Cost is $200 a head, which includes dinner, wines, transfers and after-party; hosts receive the full kit, from tickets to invitations. Chandon Supper Club is becoming the thing to do and other states can join the fun, with a different date in May for each capital. www.campquality.org.au. ■ MAY is Hunter Valley Wine and Food Month. Outsiders can see what the region is all about: chefs, winemakers, tastes and talks, dinners and lunches. www.hvwineandfood.hvva.com.au. ■ CREATOR of the luscious Tempus Two wines Lisa McGuigan and chief winemaker Liz Jackson will host the next in the series of winemaker degustation dinners at Shoal Bay Resort & Spa’s Catch Restaurant at Port Stephens, north of Sydney. Six-courses (snapper mousse, duck ballotine, warm ash blue pie . . .) with matched wines and commentary, $85 a head, May 2. www.shoalbayresort.com. ■ IS tiny the new black in restaurant chic? Matt Rudd reported in Indulgence ( Tokyo’s HotSecret , April 19-20) on Tokyo restaurant Aronia de Takazawa, with just two tables. Now TheGuardianWeekly reports on New York chef of the moment David Chang who has opened Momofuku Ko in the East Village with just 12 bar stools for diners to perch on. Bookable online up to a week in advance. www.momofuku.com. ■ THE Sydney Writers Festival has scheduled a long list of food-related fun for its coming program. There are lunches, dinners, walking tours, food conversations, a wine tasting, a food writing workshop, an oil tasting and an afternoon tea. Food identities include The Red Lantern’s Pauline Nguyen, Luke Nguyen and Mark Jensen; Kylie Kwong of Billy Kwong’s fame; Lucio Galletto of Lucio’s Italian Restaurant; Frank Camorra from Melbourne’s MoVida and food high priestess Maggie Beer. May 19 to 25. www.swf.org.au. ■ EXPERTS in France and food, Serge Dansereau of Sydney’s Bathers’ Pavilion and French Indulgence’s tour specialist Christopher de Doby will lead their fourth
’ ■ APPLICATIONS open on May 1 (closing August 1) for South Australia’s annual Premier’s Food Awards in a wealth of categories. Judging is August-September; the glitzy presentation dinner, November 14. www.safoodawards.com. ■ FIND of the week: Sydney’s Observatory Hotel has put together the Mumm Day Gift Pack (a bottle of G. H. Mumm champagne and 55g pack of Mother Moon Tea mixed by the hotel’s tea master Tjok Kerthaya, $118); the Mumm Appreciation Gift Pack adds tickets for two to Kerthaya’s July Tea Appreciation Class plus a lavish high tea ($208). (02) 9256 2210. ■ DETECTIVE loves: Go Natural frogs, chocolate, organic and in cahoots with Zoos of Victoria to raise funds for frog conservation. Coles and Macro Wholefoods (May). $4.99 for eight, fundraising packs also available. www.gonatural.com.au. ■ DETECTIVE loathes: Waiters addressing diners as though they’re old mates.
Award for excellence: Teresa Gibellini