From Tokyo to San Fran­cisco, our best chefs go­ing for a gong

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - FOOD DETECTIVE - Ju­dith Elen

GLOBAL gongs are in sea­son this week for Aussie chefs. US mag­a­zine Food& Wine , read by a mil­lion ev­ery month, lists Syd­ney’s Luke Man­gan ( Glass Brasserie, Salt Tokyo and South Food + Wine Bar San Fran­cisco) among the world’s ‘‘ 10 next chef su­per­stars’’, set to ‘‘ rock the restau­rant world’’.

Food&Wine’s just-re­leased an­nual Go Lists fo­cus on the top eateries for trav­ellers as they swoop in and out of cities. Syd­ney is sixth on its list of 10 best restau­rant cities (be­hind Tokyo, Paris, New York, Lon­don and Barcelona).

And Chris­tine Man­field’s Syd­ney restau­rant Uni­ver­sal is among its 10 best new restau­rants of 2008.

Man­gan tells FoodDe­tec­tive from Tokyo that he is al­ready known in the US through his cook­ing slot on USAToday , which he has been do­ing for five or six years, but open­ing South has given him a shop win­dow for Aussie pro­duce.

Now that South is set­tling in, he is start­ing to think about branch­ing out in the US, he says. More as it emerges. In an ar­ti­cle on wine match­ing, Food&

mag­a­zine says that Man­gan, at his San Fran­cisco restau­rant, ‘‘ shows what’s pos­si­ble in an­tipodean flavours . . . com­bin­ing a fruity Huia Vine­yards New Zealand pinot gris with spicy shrimp or . . . Wynns Coon­awarra Es­tate caber­net sauvi­gnon with lamb’’.

In the same is­sue, food writer Jake Til­son vis­its Syd­ney— from fish mar­kets to the Blue Moun­tains — loves its cul­tural di­ver­sity and ‘‘ some­one who makes a dif­fer­ence, who doesn’t see what they do as just a job’’. Mean­while Gi­bellini has taken off for a posthar­vest breather. www.mar­gare­triver­ the Yarra Val­ley, will co-host an au­tum­nal south­ern Ital­ian feast with Ric­cardo Momesso of Melbourne’s Sarti, May 18; $80 a head, food only. www.stone­soft­he­yarraval­ two-week tour of Paris and re­gional France in Au­gust. Visit cham­pagne houses, Miche­lin-starred restau­rants and luxe ho­tels; cook­ing classes al­ter­nate with stops at mar­kets and spe­cial­ist pro­duc­ers; all with in­sider know-how. It’s $11,900 a per­son twin share. www.frenchin­dul­ ■ TERESA Gi­bellini, vine­yard man­ager of West­ern Aus­tralia’s GM and G Vines, has net­ted this year’s Viti­cul­tural Ex­cel­lence Award judged by the Mar­garet River Wine In­dus­try As­so­ci­a­tion. Glam­or­gan Es­tate vine­yards, which sup­plies grapes to Vasse Felix, was GM and G’s en­trant for the awards. As­so­ci­a­tion chief Nick Power tells De­tec­tive the judges choose dis­cov­ers Duc-Thanh Viet­namese restau­rant in Cabra­matta (20-22 Hughes St). www.foodand­; www.luke­man­ ■ MEAN­WHILE, two Syd­ney restau­rants are en­shrined on the S. Pel­le­grino World’s 50 Best Restau­rants list, just pub­lished for 2008 in Lon­don’s Restau­rant mag­a­zine: Tet­suya’s and Neil Perry’s Rock­pool, now Rock­pool (fish). In the seven years of the list’s ex­is­tence, the two restau­rants have played foot­sie, shift­ing and swap­ping places but al­ways there. They rub shoul­ders with Spain’s El Bulli (top­ping the list for this and the past two years), He­ston Blu­men­thal’s The Fat Duck (Eng­land), The French Laun­dry and Chez Panisse (US), and the kitchens of world names such as Gor­don Ram­say, Joel Robu­chon, Alain Du­casse and Nobu. www.the­world­ ■ MORE glit­ter­ing prizes. Last week the In­ter­na­tional As­so­ci­a­tion of Culi­nary Pro­fes­sion­als an­nounced its an­nual cook­book awards at a din­ner in New Or­leans, nam­ing Turquoise:AChef’sTrav­els in­Turkey , by Melbourne food iden­ti­ties Greg and Lucy Malouf, its in­ter­na­tional cook­book of the year, with more than 400 ti­tles en­tered from Europe, Aus­tralia and South Africa. Turquoise will be re­leased in the US later this year.

■ GREG, a reg­u­lar Sun­day chef at Stones of ■ STAR of Greece, a retro cafe on the cliff at Port Wil­lunga, South Aus­tralia, is one of a slew of lo­cal restau­rants that will host Chan­don Sup­per Club on May 8. Auge, Shiki, As­sag­gio, The Manse and Len­z­er­heide are among other host restau­rants. The club raises funds for Camp Qual­ity, a non­profit group sup­port­ing chil­dren with can­cer across the coun­try. Restau­rants, spe­cial venues and private homes host din­ners for 12 pre­pared by lead­ing chefs and matched with Chan­don and Green Point wines; din­ers end the evening at a joint af­ter-party in some se­cret spot. Cost is $200 a head, which in­cludes din­ner, wines, trans­fers and af­ter-party; hosts re­ceive the full kit, from tick­ets to in­vi­ta­tions. Chan­don Sup­per Club is be­com­ing the thing to do and other states can join the fun, with a dif­fer­ent date in May for each cap­i­tal.­pqual­ ■ MAY is Hunter Val­ley Wine and Food Month. Out­siders can see what the re­gion is all about: chefs, wine­mak­ers, tastes and talks, din­ners and lunches. www.hvwine­and­ ■ CRE­ATOR of the lus­cious Tem­pus Two wines Lisa McGuigan and chief wine­maker Liz Jack­son will host the next in the se­ries of wine­maker de­gus­ta­tion din­ners at Shoal Bay Re­sort & Spa’s Catch Restau­rant at Port Stephens, north of Syd­ney. Six-cour­ses (snap­per mousse, duck bal­lo­tine, warm ash blue pie . . .) with matched wines and com­men­tary, $85 a head, May 2. www.shoalbayre­ ■ IS tiny the new black in restau­rant chic? Matt Rudd re­ported in In­dul­gence ( Tokyo’s HotSe­cret , April 19-20) on Tokyo restau­rant Aro­nia de Takazawa, with just two ta­bles. Now TheGuardianWeekly re­ports on New York chef of the mo­ment David Chang who has opened Mo­mo­fuku Ko in the East Vil­lage with just 12 bar stools for din­ers to perch on. Book­able on­line up to a week in ad­vance.­mo­ ■ THE Syd­ney Writ­ers Fes­ti­val has sched­uled a long list of food-re­lated fun for its com­ing pro­gram. There are lunches, din­ners, walk­ing tours, food con­ver­sa­tions, a wine tast­ing, a food writ­ing work­shop, an oil tast­ing and an af­ter­noon tea. Food iden­ti­ties in­clude The Red Lantern’s Pauline Nguyen, Luke Nguyen and Mark Jensen; Kylie Kwong of Billy Kwong’s fame; Lu­cio Gal­letto of Lu­cio’s Ital­ian Restau­rant; Frank Camorra from Melbourne’s MoVida and food high priest­ess Mag­gie Beer. May 19 to 25. ■ EX­PERTS in France and food, Serge Dansereau of Syd­ney’s Bathers’ Pavil­ion and French In­dul­gence’s tour spe­cial­ist Christo­pher de Doby will lead their fourth

’ ■ AP­PLI­CA­TIONS open on May 1 (clos­ing Au­gust 1) for South Aus­tralia’s an­nual Pre­mier’s Food Awards in a wealth of cat­e­gories. Judg­ing is Au­gust-Septem­ber; the glitzy pre­sen­ta­tion din­ner, Novem­ber 14. ■ FIND of the week: Syd­ney’s Ob­ser­va­tory Ho­tel has put to­gether the Mumm Day Gift Pack (a bot­tle of G. H. Mumm cham­pagne and 55g pack of Mother Moon Tea mixed by the ho­tel’s tea mas­ter Tjok Kerthaya, $118); the Mumm Ap­pre­ci­a­tion Gift Pack adds tick­ets for two to Kerthaya’s July Tea Ap­pre­ci­a­tion Class plus a lav­ish high tea ($208). (02) 9256 2210. ■ DE­TEC­TIVE loves: Go Nat­u­ral frogs, choco­late, or­ganic and in ca­hoots with Zoos of Vic­to­ria to raise funds for frog con­ser­va­tion. Coles and Macro Whole­foods (May). $4.99 for eight, fundrais­ing packs also avail­able. www.go­nat­u­ ■ DE­TEC­TIVE loathes: Wait­ers ad­dress­ing din­ers as though they’re old mates.



Award for ex­cel­lence: Teresa Gi­bellini

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