The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence -

GREAT pinot noir marches to the tune of a drum ut­terly dif­fer­ent from and more dif­fi­cult than that of any other variety. Hav­ing sur­mounted the im­per­a­tives of site, clone, fer­men­ta­tion, type and length of time in oak, sen­si­tiv­ity to bot­tling and fil­ter­ing, post-na­tal care, pon­der­ing on the bou­quet and fi­nally tak­ing the wine into your mouth, you still have only a par­tial idea of the qual­ity. It is not un­til you as­sess the length of the palate, the char­ac­ter and struc­ture of the fin­ish and the im­pact of the af­ter­taste that you can weigh up a new pinot. So it was with the 2007 Ta­panappa Foggy Hill Vine­yard Pinot Noir (96 points), with its echoes of high-qual­ity bur­gundy, gen­er­ated by the thrust of the back palate, tex­ture of the fin­ish and in­ten­sity of the af­ter­taste. The vin­tage was a dif­fi­cult one, and this was the first crop, but it sent shivers down my spine. There are 850 cases at a pal­try $45 a bot­tle.

www.tapanap­paw­ James Halliday

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