A sunny out­look for Aussie movers and shak­ers

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence - MICHELLE ROWE FOOD DE­TEC­TIVE

THERE must be some­thing in the wa­ter in Fiji, given the num­ber of Aus­tralian chefs pack­ing their board­shorts and head­ing for the South Pa­cific. Brett Kryskow of Syd­ney’s The Bathers’ Pavil­ion is the lat­est to make the move, tak­ing over at lux­ury Fi­jian spread Liku­liku La­goon Re­sort as ex­ec­u­tive chef later this month. Kryskow re­places fel­low Aussie Shane Wat­son, ofMy Res­tau­ran­tRules fame, who is re­turn­ing to Syd­ney to head up the kitchen at Wild­fire. Kryskow will be ac­com­pa­nied by fi­ancee Chloe Marsh­man, fresh from Syd­ney’s multi-award-winning Quay restau­rant, who will take over Liku­liku’s pas­try kitchen.

Liku­liku La­goon Re­sort group gen­eral man­ager Steve An­stey says the de­ci­sion to put Kryskow— who also has worked at Mag­gie Beer’s Ade­laide restau­rant Char­lick’s Feed Store and as No 2 to Wat­son at Vie Restau­rant at the Sof­i­tel Queen­stown in New Zealand — in charge of the re­sort’s restau­rant was a no-brainer.

Brett’s pas­sion, cre­ativ­ity and knowl­edge set him apart in the cook­ing in­dus­try as a def­i­nite chef to watch’ over the com­ing years,’’ An­stey says.

The chang­ing of the guard at Liku­liku fol­lows news that Syd­ney’s Fly­ing fish will open a restau­rant at the Sher­a­ton De­na­rau in Fiji in Novem­ber, the first in a se­ries of out­lets planned across the globe. Food De­tec­tive is con­fi­dent the in­flux of Aussie tal­ent will be noth­ing but a boon for this is­land par­adise, where ho­tel food has of­ten been less than shin­ing in the past. www.liku­liku­la­goon.com.

IN other chef ma­noeu­vres abroad, Dane Clous­ton, a pro­tege of Mel­bourne’s Teage Ezard, has moved from Opia restau­rant at Jia ho­tel, Hong Kong, to Shang­hai’s soon-to-open The PuLi Ho­tel & Spa. Clous­ton, who trained un­der Ezard at his epony­mous Mel­bourne restau­rant, and co-au­thored Lo­tus:AsianFlavours, a com­pi­la­tion of South­east Asian street foods, with Ezard in 2006, will head up The PuLi’s sig­na­ture restau­rant Jing’An when the ho­tel opens at the end of the year. De­tec­tive has had an early peek at the menu and is in­trigued by the likes of hairy crab ravi­olo with car­rots, gre­mo­lata and veal juice vinai­grette and pressed foie gras, vol­canic sea salt, olive oil and chocolate. www.thep­uli.com; www.ezard.com.au; www.ji­a­hongkong.com.

THERE is no deny­ing Paul New­man’s enor­mous con­tri­bu­tion to the en­ter­tain­ment in­dus­try. Fewer peo­ple, De­tec­tive sus­pects, are as well versed in New­man’s ser­vices to Aussie bat­tlers. In the 25 years since his New­man’s Own sauces and salad dress­ings were launched in Syd­ney, 778 grants, us­ing funds raised from their sale, have been made to lo­cal char­i­ties. Last year, more than $1 mil­lion was shared be­tween 28 or­gan­i­sa­tions across Aus­tralia, in­clud­ing the Viet­nam Vet­er­ans As­so­ci­a­tion of NSW ($50,000), Pent­land Town Ru­ral Fire Bri­gade in Queens­land ($25,000) and Mel­bourne Al­co­hol Re­cov­ery ($40,000). Paul al­ways cham­pi­oned the lit­tle guy,’’ says New­man’s Own Foun­da­tion Aus­tralasian ad­min­is­tra­tor Sue Home. He sup­ported a lot of char­i­ties that weren’t nec­es­sar­ily that fash­ion­able be­cause he was al­ways con­cerned for the most vul­ner­a­ble mem­bers of so­ci­ety.’’

Home re­veals that New­man, who died 25 years to the day since his range of cup­board sta­ples was launched in Syd­ney (Aus­tralia was the first coun­try out­side the US to sell them), en­sured be­fore his death that his fundrais­ing ef­forts would con­tinue. He clearly knew that he wasn’t well 18 months ago so he started set­ting ev­ery­thing in place for the work to con­tinue,’’ she says. New­man’s sales prow­ess was never his strong point, ad­mits Home, who says the ac­tor held the motto

Shame­less ex­ploita­tion in pur­suit of the com­mon good’’ and put up signs in his of­fice such as If we ever have a plan we’re screwed’’. His mar­ket­ing was a joke,’’ she says. But the qual­ity of the prod­ucts and the giv­ing away of the money were the only things that were im­por­tant to him.’’ www.paulnew­man­sown.com.au.

MORE than 20 in­ter­na­tional and Aus­tralian chefs with 29 Miche­lin stars be­tween them will form the glit­ter­ing line-up at next year’s Mel­bourne Food & Wine Fes­ti­val, De­tec­tive is told.

Bri­tons He­ston Ble­men­thal and Philip Howard will take part in the Lang­ham Mel­bourne Mas­ter­class week­end on March 21 and 22, along­side Italy’s Luisa Valazza, France’s Jean-Paul Je­unet and Rene Redzepi, who put Nordic cui­sine back on the map with ac­claimed Copen­hagen restau­rant Noma. US lu­mi­nary Thomas Keller, Italy’s Carlo Cracco, Brit Shane Os­born and Ger­many’s Di­eter Muller com­plete the Miche­lin­starred team. Tick­ets for mas­ter­classes and other events dur­ing the Mel­bourne Food & Wine Fes­ti­val, March 7-21, are now on sale. More: 136 100; www.mel­bourne­foodand­wine.com.au.

MOVE over, Rus­sell Crowe. The Aussie-based star of the cheese world, Will Studd, has just had his big break in the US. Whole Foods, the world’s lead­ing re­tailer of

BOXED TREATS

Rata­touille : Un­will­ing to let the fact he is a ro­dent stop from him pur­su­ing his dream of be­com­ing one of the world’s great chefs, Remy teams up with Lin­guini, a restau­rant garbage boy, to make his mark on the culi­nary world of Paris. A ro­dent in the kitchen is not al­ways a bad thing. Satur­day, 6.30pm, Dis­ney Chan­nel.

NoReservations : Cather­ine Zeta-Jones plays a per­fec­tion­ist mas­ter chef who must come to grips with a brash new chef in her kitchen and the re­spon­si­bil­ity of tak­ing on guardian­ship of her young niece. Sun­day, 8.30pm, Movie One.

FIND of the week: Frus­trated by the taste­less toma­toes of­ten found in our na­tion’s fruit and veg stores, De­tec­tive was de­lighted when a box of mys­te­ri­ous pro­duce landed on her desk last week. Its con­tents were freshly picked kumatoes, a cross be­tween wild and do­mes­tic toma­toes, which are be­ing grown in Aus­tralia nat­u­ral and or­ganic foods with 270 stores across the US, Canada and Bri­tain, will put Studd’s CheeseSlices DVD in all its Amer­i­can stores. Says Studd: It’s great news. All the cheeses in the se­ries are sold in their stores, un­like here in Aus­tralia where the au­thor­i­ties are still ban­ning them on the grounds of food safety.’’ As for chal­leng­ing Crowe as one of Aus­tralia’s most fa­mous ex­ports? Steady . . . it’s a show about cheese,’’ says a bash­ful Studd. But, yes, I live in hope.’’ www.cheeseslices.com.au; www.whole­foods­mar­ket.com. by the Kak­ouros fam­ily of Torquay, Vic­to­ria. Un­like any tomato De­tec­tive has seen, the ku­mato, which in­volves no ge­netic mod­i­fi­ca­tion, ranges from bright green to dark brown, then turns deep red as it ages; it can be eaten at all stages of its life­span. Al­though at its best be­tween Novem­ber and late sum­mer, it is avail­able all year round. De­tec­tive, who slipped a cou­ple of kumatoes into her evening salad and then sliced one for a sand­wich the next day, can re­port that this odd-looking new­comer is def­i­nitely worth seek­ing out.

DE­TEC­TIVE loves: Hong Kong style mae­stro David Tang, of Shang­hai Tang and China Club fame, has re­cently opened Is­land Tang restau­rant in Queen’s Road, Cen­tral. For those un­able to shmooze their way into his exclusive pri­vate mem­bers club, there’s now an op­por­tu­nity to ex­pe­ri­ence a bit of Tang magic on that next visit to bustling Honkers. Is­land Tang, sec­ond floor, 9 Queen’s Rd, Cen­tral, Hong Kong.

DE­TEC­TIVE loathes: Ev­ery now and then De­tec­tive comes across a cook­ery release that is, to put it bluntly, a load of bol­locks, but none more so than this. En­ter­pris­ing Ser­bian chef Ljubomir Erovic has launched TheTes­ti­cleCook­book:Cook­ing­with­Balls, with on­line pub­lisher Yudu. The 45-year-old self-taught chef in­cludes gems such as tes­ti­cle pizza, omelet with calf tes­ti­cles and tes­ti­cle goulash in his line-up, help­fully point­ing out to TheTimes in Lon­don that, all tes­ti­cles can be eaten, ex­cept hu­man, of course’’. That’s a re­lief, then. On hear­ing of Erovic’s com­pi­la­tion, a vis­i­bly pale MrDe­tec­tive­had to lie down in a dark room with a cold flan­nel over his face.

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