FROM THE RE­GION

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence -

2007 Houghton Wis­dom Pem­ber­ton Chardon­nay WIS­DOM is a new range (in name at least) in the Houghton port­fo­lio. You cer­tainly won’t pass by the la­bel de­sign without notic­ing it. The name comes from the wis­dom of Jack Mann, Houghton’s wine­maker for 51 years. His one-lin­ers are part of folk­lore (one of many was ‘‘ the three Cs are Chris­tian­ity, ch­ablis and cricket’’). He did not live to make any wine from Pem­ber­ton, such as this su­perb chardon­nay ($32, 96 points), which has al­ready won two tro­phies in wine shows. It is a com­plete wine, with great depth and power, yet there is el­e­gant re­straint to the long and even palate, with am­ple lev­els of pure grape­fruit flavour framed by grilled nuts and cleans­ing acid­ity. Mann would un­doubt­edly give it his seal of ap­proval. James Hal­l­i­day

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