The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Front Page -

Krug cham­pagne FOR those who wish to make a de­fi­ant stand against the fu­ne­real mood grip­ping the world, there is the king of Cham­pagne, Krug. The im­mac­u­lately pack­aged Grand Cu­vee (about $275) is im­pe­ri­ously com­plex, the ul­ti­mate non-vin­tage cham­pagne. Also, the ’ 98 Vin­tage Krug has re­cently ar­rived in Aus­tralia and is on sale in top-end re­tail­ers at $440 to $450; it has shrugged off the ripe vin­tage chal­lenge and is re­garded by some as su­pe­rior to the ’ 96, so per­fect is its re­straint and bal­ance. But the ul­ti­mate ges­ture of de­fi­ance is the ’ 95 Krug Clos d’Am­bon­nay, sin­gle bot­tles of which can be found. This is the first vin­tage from a clos (a walled sin­gle vine­yard) of 0.685ha of pinot noir bought by Krug be­fore the ’ 95 vin­tage. Pro­duc­tion is about 3000 bot­tles. The wine demon­strates ex­traor­di­nary el­e­gance and fi­nesse, with a vi­brancy and length be­yond all other blanc de noirs, an en­tic­ing mix of the small wild straw­ber­ries ( frais­es­dubois ) of France and lemon sher­bet acid­ity. James Hal­l­i­day

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