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Boire­ann 2007 The Lurnea THAT self-taught viticulturists and wine­mak­ers can pro­duce out­stand­ing wines, even in ad­verse cir­cum­stances, is vividly demon­strated by Peter and Therese Stark of Boire­ann. The en­tire crop from their diminu­tive, 1.5ha es­tate vine­yard was de­stroyed by frost, so the 2007 vin­tage wines were made from grapes pur­chased from other grow­ers in the re­gion. The 2007 The Lurnea ($27, 60 per cent mer­lot, 40 per cent caber­net sau­vi­gnon), 2007 caber­net sau­vi­gnon ($25) and 2007 mourve­dre shi­raz ($27) are all 94-point wines, the shi­raz ($27) 92 points and mourve­dre ($25) 93 points (an eye­lash be­hind). In the eter­nal ar­gu­ment about the im­por­tance of ter­roir, the hu­man hand is al­ways the ful­crum. www.boire­an­nwin­

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