Boireann 2007 The Lurnea THAT self-taught viticulturists and winemakers can produce outstanding wines, even in adverse circumstances, is vividly demonstrated by Peter and Therese Stark of Boireann. The entire crop from their diminutive, 1.5ha estate vineyard was destroyed by frost, so the 2007 vintage wines were made from grapes purchased from other growers in the region. The 2007 The Lurnea ($27, 60 per cent merlot, 40 per cent cabernet sauvignon), 2007 cabernet sauvignon ($25) and 2007 mourvedre shiraz ($27) are all 94-point wines, the shiraz ($27) 92 points and mourvedre ($25) 93 points (an eyelash behind). In the eternal argument about the importance of terroir, the human hand is always the fulcrum. www.boireannwinery.com.au.