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Roasted baby beet­root and ja­mon salad, shaved reg­giano, white bal­samic ($23)

Cam­pa­nia pork belly, creamy fen­nel puree, ham hock con­somme, crackle ($22)

Peanut brit­tle par­fait, caramelised ba­nana, hot chocolate sauce ($14) as Euro­pean of­fer­ings: three Bruny Is­lands and a Vic­to­rian on the Aus­tralian side, four French and an English on the Euro­pean. All por­tions are 50g and served with lavosh ($9.50). A plat­ter of three cheeses with quince paste, honey roasted wal­nuts and semidried grapes costs $28 and there’s also a truf­fle-in­fused hon­ey­comb for $5 ex­tra. Un­able to de­cide? Or­der a serve of each cheese, with ac­com­pa­ni­ments, for $80.

If I had the heart, I’d go for the poached pear tart tatin with vanilla bean ice cream and pear crisp ($14). Or per­haps the Cra­dle Moun­tain honey creme brulee with hazel­nut and lemon kisses ($14).

It’s not to be this time, but it’s a good re­sult all round. For we now have the per­fect ex­cuse to re­turn to this lively eatery with bright and en­er­getic staff, a steady hand at the stoves and its heart in the right place.

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