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2006 Bar­wang 842 Chardon­nay McWIL­LIAM’S 2006 Bar­wang 842 Chardon­nay (96 points; 13 per cent alc/vol; $35) is the cul­mi­na­tion of a pro­gram that be­gan many years ago. There is a de­gree of po­etic li­cence in the 842. It is the alti­tude of the high­est vine­yard pro­vid­ing grapes for the wine, but there are oth­ers at lower al­ti­tudes. Bright straw-green, it is ex­traor­di­nar­ily fine, youth­ful and pre­cise, with nec­tarine and grape­fruit driv­ing the bou­quet, the wine glid­ing evenly across the long, lin­ger­ing palate. Oak plays a role, as 50 per cent of the wine is in new French bar­riques, the re­main­der in sec­ond-use bar­rels and 20 per cent go­ing through mal­o­lac­tic fer­men­ta­tion in bar­rel. It is small won­der that the wine has won two tro­phies and three gold medals, al­though its small run of 500 cases will cut its show ca­reer short. James Hal­l­i­day

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