Would-be for­ager from Tas­ma­nia heads to won­der­ful Copen­hagen

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Front Page -

COULD the din­ing room at the award-winning Is­ling­ton Ho­tel be the hottest in Ho­bart at the mo­ment? FoodDe­tec­tive’s well-fed spies think so and it’s largely due to guest chef Luke Burgess, a tal­ented for­mer Tet­suya’s alumni whose menu show­cases or­ganic and sea­sonal Tas­ma­nian pro­duce.

Burgess, who closed his restau­rant, Pec­ora, in Birchs Bay south of Ho­bart a year ago to look for a more suit­able site, is turn­ing out ex­cel­lent break­fasts and four to five-course din­ners at the bou­tique ho­tel. Presently avail­able only to ho­tel guests, new gen­eral man­ager Lisa Thorsen is hop­ing to open the din­ing room to the pub­lic so they can try the likes of Burgess’s in­spired take on surf and turf — braised wild rab­bit ravi­olo with savoy cab­bage in a kelp broth — and his lus­cious-sound­ing pork cheeks agrodolce on a po­tato and turnip puree.

But you’ll need to be quick. The for­mer Syd­ney chef is only be­hind the burn­ers un­til the start of Au­gust, be­fore jet­ting off to Europe for a stint at the world’s most talked about restau­rant, Copen­hagen’s Noma. Thorsen is on the hunt for a tal­ented head chef to re­place him when he de­parts.

A de­lighted Burgess tells FoodDe­tec­tive his per­sis­tence paid off when he got an email from Noma’s sous chef to say he’d been ap­proved for a five-week so­journ at the restau­rant voted No. 3 on the re­cent 50 Best Restau­rants in the World list.

‘‘ I’d been email­ing them for a cou­ple of years and it’s quite co­in­ci­den­tal that it hap­pened this year, it’s per­fect tim­ing,’’ he says. Burgess is par­tic­u­larly keen to ex­pe­ri­ence the pad­dock-to-plate phi­los­o­phy en­thu­si­as­ti­cally em­braced by Rene Redzepi’s twoMiche­lin-starred kitchen. ‘‘ Noma has five full-time for­agers,’’ Burgess says. ‘‘ That’s part of what ap­pealed to me. I want to look at what na­ture pro­vides there food­wise to see if I can draw any par­al­lels back here. A lot of the things they do re­ally in­ter­est me.’’

Burgess also plans to visit Italy’s Slow Food cheese fes­ti­val and Paris to re­search vine­yards and cheese­mon­gers be­fore his ar­rival in Den­mark. ‘‘ All the stuff I learn will be price­less,’’ he says, promis­ing that he will re­turn to open an­other Tas­ma­nian restau­rant, un­less, of course, his luck is in again. ‘‘ I doubt Noma would of­fer me a job, but if some­thing came up, po­ten­tially I’d have to con­sider it,’’ he says. www.is­ling­ton­ho­tel.com.au.

IT’S def­i­nitely back to the draw­ing board for De­tec­tive, whose 300-strong cook­ery book col­lec­tion ( Travel&In­dul­gence, May 23-24) now ap­pears pos­i­tively flimsy, and not just in com­par­i­son with heavy­weights such as An­ton Mosi­mann and Gary Rhodes. Reader Stephen Bond is so weighed down with food ti­tles that he’s try­ing to off­load 215 cook­books from his im­pres­sive col­lec­tion, most of which he says are ‘‘ in su­perb nick’’ (he’s keep­ing a sim­i­lar num­ber of his favourites).

The thor­oughly or­gan­ised Bond has sorted the col­lec­tion into cat­e­gories. For ex­am­ple, 30 Aus­tralian ti­tles in­clud­ing all the favourites such as Mar­garet Ful­ton, Mag­gie Beer, Stephanie Alexan­der and the like; Amer­i­can (19 ti­tles, in­clud­ing five by Alice Wa­ters); French (35 ti­tles, in­clud­ing four by Michel Roux); Ital­ian, Mediter­ranean, Asian, seafood, ‘‘ how to cook’’, ‘‘ clas­sic-rare’’ and more; some of the ti­tles have never been re­leased in Aus­tralia. Po­ten­tial buy­ers should email in­dul­gence@theaus­tralian.com.au and De­tec­tive will pass your queries to Bond.

FANCY hav­ing din­ner at the home of a Barossa Val­ley wine­maker? Now’s your chance, with sev­eral of the 44 wine­mak­ers tak­ing part in the Barossa at Home fes­ti­val go­ing the ex­tra mile in the name of cus­tomer re­la­tions. As well as the in­ti­mate wine­maker din­ners (book­ings es­sen­tial), some vine­yards that never open to the pub­lic will of­fer rare tast­ing op­por­tu­ni­ties dur­ing the June 27-28 fes­ti­val. For an e-brochure of all the events, con­tact the Barossa Vis­i­tor In­for­ma­tion Cen­tre: 1300 852 982; info@barossa.com.

FIND of the week: Trans­port those del­i­cate young taste­buds away from the realms of bland food with the Baby Spice Kit, the lat­est from Her­bie’s Spices. The likes of lemon myr­tle, ras el hanout, cin­na­mon, sam­bar pow­der, chaat masala and smoked pa­prika will mean bub will never look pureed carrot in the eye again. Pitched as ‘‘ not Posh and def­i­nitely not Scary’’, the Baby Spice Kit in­cludes recipes for adult, tod­dler and baby ver­sions; $30 at Her­bie’s Spices in Syd­ney’s Rozelle. www.her­bies.com.au.

DE­TEC­TIVE loves: Ste­fano’s Pre­serves’ de­li­cious peach and vanilla bean jam, cre­ated by Mil­dura food afi­ciona­dos Ste­fano de Pieri and Lyn­dall Van­den­berg. De­tec­tive has tried it on her morn­ing toast to ex­cel­lent ef­fect, and is champ­ing at the bit to do as the la­bel sug­gests and spread it thickly be­tween the lay­ers of a sponge cake. Pass the clot­ted cream. From David Jones Food Halls and se­lected dis­trib­u­tors; $13.95. www.lyn­dal­l­van­den­berg.com.au.

DE­TEC­TIVE loathes: That she forked out an ex­tor­tion­ate amount of money on a wed­ding cake years ago when she could have fol­lowed the shin­ing ex­am­ple set by English cou­ple An­drew and Amy Doyle. The pair chose a gi­ant pork pie, com­plete with motorcycling new­ly­weds on top, to mark their big day. ‘‘ I’mo­rig­i­nally from Wi­gan, which is, af­ter all, the home of the pork pie,’’ the proud groom told his lo­cal pa­per. De­tec­tive never met a pas­try she didn’t like and wishes this cre­atively minded cou­ple well.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.