DETECTIVE has just returned from holiday in England, where she ate at so many restaurants, she almost had to be stretchered out of the country. Highlights were lunch at Michelin-starred Helene Darroze at the Connaught, designer dumplings at Yauatcha, hearty fare at Fergus Henderson’s fab new hotel and restaurant just off Leicester Square, and snacks at the super-cool new Nopi all-day brasserie in Soho. The most memorable meal, however, was at The Waterside Inn in the pretty town of Bray, 45 minutes’ drive from the big smoke, where she embarked on a multi-course extravaganza including ravioli and ‘‘diablotins’’ of Burgundy snails in lemongrass-scented chicken bouillon; lobster medallions with a white port sauce and ginger flavoured vegetable julienne; breasts of young pigeon and quail on crushed potato and cabbage, served with a lime jus, and a seven-part dessert tasting tray. The menu she ‘‘souvenired’’ is going straight to the pool room. More: waterside-inn.co.uk.