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The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence -

DE­TEC­TIVE has just re­turned from hol­i­day in Eng­land, where she ate at so many restau­rants, she al­most had to be stretchered out of the coun­try. High­lights were lunch at Miche­lin-starred He­lene Dar­roze at the Con­naught, de­signer dumplings at Yau­atcha, hearty fare at Fer­gus Hen­der­son’s fab new ho­tel and restau­rant just off Le­ices­ter Square, and snacks at the su­per-cool new Nopi all-day brasserie in Soho. The most mem­o­rable meal, how­ever, was at The Water­side Inn in the pretty town of Bray, 45 min­utes’ drive from the big smoke, where she em­barked on a multi-course ex­trav­a­ganza in­clud­ing ravi­oli and ‘‘di­a­blotins’’ of Bur­gundy snails in le­mon­grass-scented chicken bouil­lon; lob­ster medallions with a white port sauce and gin­ger flavoured veg­etable juli­enne; breasts of young pi­geon and quail on crushed potato and cab­bage, served with a lime jus, and a seven-part dessert tast­ing tray. The menu she ‘‘sou­venired’’ is go­ing straight to the pool room. More: water­side-inn.co.uk.

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