FOOD Detective thought she’d stumbled into a scene from Happy Days — albeit with an Argentinian accent — when she popped by Sydney’s Porteno for dinner. A maitre d’ in glamorous 1950s skirt and pincurls, and chefs and sommelier sporting rockabilly gear moved deftly around a blazing asador, a wood-fired barbecue more commonly used by gauchos to grill their meats, as they produced plates piled high with slow-cooked suckling pig and suffolk lamb. Detective can vouch for the lamb, along with the beef empanadas, pickled veal tongue, calamari with chickpea sofrito, preserved lemon and watercress, red cabbage slaw and fried brussels sprouts with lentils and mint. If this is how those South American cowboys eat, Detective’s asking for a horse for Christmas (and it’ll need to be a sturdy one). More: porteno.com.au.