LIT­TLE BLACK BOOK

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Europe In Winter -

BEATA Za­torska grew up in south­west Poland, moved to Aus­tralia at 18 and is now a Syd­ney doc­tor. Her book Rose Petal Jam, the story of her child­hood, writ­ten with Si­mon Tar­get, is re­leased in Septem­ber. More: rosepetal­jam.net. Des­per­ate to go back to: Samot­nia, an old wooden chalet high in Poland’s Karkonosze Moun­tains, reach­able only by foot. Must visit: Wieliczka salt mine in south­ern Poland; deep un­der­ground there’s a chapel carved out of rock salt, lit by crys­tal chan­de­liers. Ultimate eco ad­ven­ture: The Kornik Ar­bore­tum by a moated cas­tle near Poz­nan, with its vast DEALS OF THE WEEK Ro­man hol­i­day: Save 40 per cent on a min­i­mum three-night stay at Rome’s four-star Ho­tel At­lante Star be­fore De­cem­ber 29; from $139 a room twin-share. The rooftop Les Etoiles restau­rant has 360-de­gree views of the city, in­clud­ing the Vat­i­can and St Peter’s. More: 133 810; ex­pe­dia.com.au. col­lec­tion of oaks, elms, lilacs and rhodo­den­drons. Stand-out af­ter­noon tea ex­pe­ri­ence: Hot chocolate in E. Wedel’s chocolate par­lour on Krakow’s main square. Best ex­pe­ri­ence afloat: Raft­ing along the Du­na­jec River gorge, past cas­tles, trees and City of lights: Visit Paris be­fore Au­gust 28 and get spe­cial room rates and up­grades on ar­rival (sub­ject to avail­abil­ity), com­pli­men­tary in-room break­fast for two and an

($112) spa credit at the newly opened Man­darin Ori­en­tal. Avail­able through Vir­tu­oso agents only. More: au.vir­tu­oso.com. ru­ins, high on the cliffs above. Invit­ing culi­nary des­ti­na­tion: The cheese stalls at the open-air mar­kets in Zakopane, Ta­tra Moun­tains. In­spi­ra­tional travel nar­ra­tive: A Coun­try in the Moon, a hu­mor­ous take on travel in Poland by Aus­tralian Michael Mo­ran. Favourite web­site: Poland.travel/en, a great place to start trav­el­ling around Poland. Most mem­o­rable splurge: An ex­quis­ite neck­lace of Baltic Sea am­ber from a jew­ellery shop in Mari­acka Street, Gdansk. Best spent travel dol­lars: A typ­i­cal Pol­ish lunch of pierogi, bi­gos or pan­cakes in a bar mleczny (cafe­te­ria). Vic Vic hooray: Cel­e­brate Her Majesty’s di­a­mond ju­bilee with a 17-night Queen Vic­to­ria Adri­atic cruise de­part­ing June 1, 2012, in­clud­ing re­turn flights from Syd­ney, Bris­bane, Mel­bourne or Perth, and cel­e­bra­tions in South­hamp­ton. From $6999 a per­son twin-share; cred­its for book­ings be­fore Novem­ber 30. More: cruisea­way.com.au.

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