The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Travel & Indulgence - FIONA CAULFIELD

STAY: Lo­haru House A cen­trally lo­cated guest­house famed for its gra­cious hos­pi­tal­ity. It is the Jaipur res­i­dence of the Nawab of Lo­haru and his wife, Begum Fauzia Ah­mad Khan, who pre­sides over fab­u­lous meals in the for­mal din­ing room. Its three suites and 11 rooms are set amid land­scaped gar­dens. My favourite is suite 10, with lovely views, sep­a­rate dress­ing-room and a bath­tub, a rare treat in In­dia; Civil Lines, 302001; lo­haru­ EAT: Saba Haveli ho­tel This small din­ing room is one of the best-kept se­crets in the city. Chef Puskai Giri makes won­der­ful thalis for about 600 ru­pees ($11); saba­ DRINK: Chukkers This mem­bers’ bar at the polo ground is where play­ers con­gre­gate post-match. Dec­o­rated with pho­tos of tri­umphant teams, it’s a good place to taste the lo­cal beer, Golden Peacock. Same-day mem­ber­ship is avail­able for tourists; tajho­ PARTY: The Re­cy­cle Pub & Club Oxy­gen An eclec­tic live-gig venue host­ing in­ter­na­tional and In­dian acts. At the rear is Club Oxy­gen, where guest DJs play dance mu­sic un­til late. Ex­cel­lent cock­tails; Ho­tel Do­das Palace (base­ment), Lane 2, Raja Park. WALK: Jaipur Walks Vi­neet Sharma of­fers five themed walks cov­er­ing re­li­gion, ar­chi­tec­ture, bazaars, cui­sine and arts and crafts. My favourite is the arts and crafts walk, which takes you to what Jaipur is re­ally fa­mous for — its ar­ti­sans, jewellers, carvers and tie-dy­ers; Vi­neet (mo­bile: + 91 982 907 1784); jaipur­walks@ya­ SA­FARI: Sky Waltz A world-class bal­loon sa­fari op­er­a­tion ad­her­ing to in­ter­na­tional safety stan­dards. Our flight took off from a cricket pitch near Am­ber and as we as­cended the full majesty of Ra­jasthan was re­vealed; sky­ SHOP: Nayika by Meenu Tho­lia Meenu and her son Vikas work with ar­ti­sans to cre­ate time­less fash­ion. The sig­na­ture item is the voile and silk quilted jacket, which can be made to or­der. Also rec­om­mended are cool cot­ton shirts and dresses, hand­bags and shawls. Meenu’s hus­band, Romi, runs Tho­lia’s Ku­ber, one of the most highly rated jewellers in Jaipur, just across the court­yard;

The third edition of Fiona Caulfield’s Love Jaipur, Ra­jasthan is out now. More: love­trav­el­

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