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The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Destination Europe - MICHELLE ROWE

Ste­fano de Pieri and Jim McDougall (Hardie Grant, $49.95) IN Italy, culi­nary ri­val­ries abound. Tell a Puglian, say, that his re­gional fare is not as good as a Piemon­tese’s and watch the far­falle hit the fan. It’s fit­ting that this book from Ste­fano de Pieri, of Ste­fano’s res­tau­rant in Mil­dura, Vic­to­ria, and his for­mer ap­pren­tice Jim McDougall has a com­pet­i­tive heart. DePieri’s tra­di­tional Ital­ian recipes sit along­side McDougall’s more flam­boy­ant of­fer­ings — a sim­ple warm salad of duck from de Pieri, for ex­am­ple, against McDougall’s ana­tra with potato and sting­ing net­tle salad. De Pieri has toiled in Mil­dura for close to two decades. McDougall got itchy feet and worked at Vue de Mon­dein Mel­bourne be­fore re­cently re­turn­ing to the fold, bring­ing a wealth of new ideas. The re­sult is a de­lec­ta­ble col­lab­o­ra­tion to suit ev­ery palate. Diane Kochi­las (Hardie Grant, $65) THEway­tothe heart of a na­tion is through its coun­try cooks, and this hefty, en­cy­clopaedic pub­li­ca­tion — join­ing Italy, France and Ire­land in the pub­lisher’s Coun­try Cook­ing se­ries — has drawn recipes from ev­ery cor­ner of Greece. Athens­based teacher and chef Kochi­las has writ­ten seven books on Greek and Mediter­ranean cook­ing, and this is a one-stop shop for any­body want­ing to learn the finer de­tails of this cui­sine.

There are more than 250 recipes, drawn from lo­cal vil­lages, tav­er­nas and Kochi­las’s cook­ing school, plus chap­ters on Greek spe­cial­ties (av­gole­mono, sa­ganaki) and in­tro­duc­tions to pro­duc­ers and mar­kets.

Pan-fried shrimp or onion frit­ters with pa­prika and oregano sound just about per­fect for sum­mer.

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