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The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Travel & Indulgence -

‘WE came to corn­fields and a vil­lage called Arayu, full of sav­age dogs and surly-look­ing Ta­jiks and mud houses like those of Egyp­tian fel­lahin. This patch of cul­ti­va­tion was suc­ceeded by a mighty red-cliffed gorge where there were caves in which we shel­tered from the mid­day sun. But not for long. The path to Par­ian and Shah­naiz led up out of it, high over the moun­tain. At the wa­ter­shed we turned still more to the north, go­ing down­hill again now and into a fi­nal nar­row val­ley . . .’

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