THE INSIDERS I ATRANI, AMALFI COAST
STAY: Hotel Luna Convento Atrani is one of the prettiest and least busy towns on Italy’s Amalfi Coast and is very easy to get around. This delightful historic hotel, with a seaside position between Atrani and Amalfi (the two are a stone’s throw from each other), has cloisters dating from 1200 and a magnificent courtyard. It is one of the loveliest places to stay in the area; lunahotel.it. EAT: Ristorante A’Paranza This restaurant has been open for decades and is still one of the best on the Amalfi Coast. There are no spectacular views, penguin-suited waiters or fancy decor, but the Proto brothers have the best formula for an ideal Italian eatery — excellent food. Roberto Proto’s seafood risotto is one of the best you’ll find in the region; ristoranteparanza.com. WALK: Santa Maria del Bando Perched on the mountain behind the town is a tiny monastery, like a set from a Roberto Rossellini film. Many years ago, judicial sentences, proclamations and banishments were announced simply by shouting from the church to the townsfolk below. To reach the monastery from the heart of Atrani, you must negotiate 500 steps. I recommend this as a pre-lunch adventure to build up your appetite. Or take an easy stroll from Piazza Umberto through a series of terraced staircases and within 15 minutes you’ll be in the heart of Amalfi. The walk starts just behind the tobacco shop. VISIT: San Salvatore de Birecto This precious baroque church, built in 940 and modified several times in the neoclassical style, is nestled above Piazza Umberto. The building is a mustsee and a testimony to the wealth and influence of the church at the time it was built. PLAY: Atrani Beach This glorious stretch is one of the few along the coast with direct road access. Park your car, walk a short distance and dip your toes in the Mediterranean. REFUEL: A coffee and a chat with the local barber or butcher in the piazza is a must. Stop at Bar Birecto or La Risacca for a prelunch spritz or an espresso and watch the locals going about their business; risacca.com. Amanda Tabberer is the author of My Amalfi Coast. Her second book, Amalfi Coast Recipes (Lantern, $49.99), is out now.