THE IN­SID­ERS I FLORENCE

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - The Global Gourmet Issue - TESSA KIROS

STAY: Ho­tel Lun­garno Ask for a room over­look­ing the water at this stylish prop­erty on the banks of the River Arno in cen­tral Florence; slh.com. COF­FEE: Caffe Gilli A beau­ti­ful bar in Pi­azza della Repub­blica with Mu­rano chan­de­liers and fres­coed ceil­ings. Have your cof­fee stand­ing up at the bar as the Ital­ians do; gilli.it. TREATS: Dol­cis­sima There is only one ta­ble here. Grab it if you can and set­tle in for some de­li­cious tiny pas­tries and tea; dol­cis­si­mafirenze.it. EAT: Trat­to­ria Sostanza A tra­di­tional trat­to­ria serv­ing Tus­can clas­sics. A spe­cial­ity is pollo al burro (chicken with but­ter); Via della Por­cel­lana 25, Santa Maria Novella. SHOP: Busatti This is the place if you’re look­ing for beau­ti­ful li­nens and tow­els; Borgo San Ja­copo 38. Pen­sione Bencista Owned by a mem­ber of the Floren­tine aris­toc­racy in the 14th cen­tury, this villa was a con­vent be­fore be­ing con­verted into a homely, down-to-earth guest­house in the hills of Fiesole; bencista.com. Caffe Gi­a­cosa This grand cafe on della Spada claims to be where the ne­groni was in­vented. Won­der­ful cap­puc­ci­nos and mochac­ci­nos (and ex­quis­ite choco­late); caf­fe­gia­cosa.it. Pro­cacci This his­toric del­i­catessen and wine bar is per­fect for a glass of Tus­can wine and a quick snack (per­haps one of the fa­mous ‘‘truf­fled’’ sand­wiches). It also sells olive oils, pates, sauces and jams; pro­cacci1885.it. Il Tor­chio For beau­ti­ful pa­pers, note­books and other sta­tionery; Via dei Bardi 17. RE­LAX: Il Giardino delle Rose This rose garden near Pi­az­zale Michelan­gelo, lead­ing down to the won­der­ful neigh­bour­hood of San Nic­colo, is per­fect for a leisurely stroll; il­gia­rdinodelle

rose.it. Tessa Kiros’s lat­est book is Limon­cello and Linen Water (Mur­doch Books, $59.99).

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