The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Travel & Indulgence -

‘THERE was a sad­ness in the still­ness of dusk. The cafe was packed with long-faced men in robes sip­ping black cof­fee, smok­ing dark to­bacco. A waiter weaved be­tween the ta­bles, tray balanced on up­turned fin­ger­tips, glass balanced on tray. In that moment, day be­came night. The sit­ters drew deep on their cigarettes, coughed and stared out at the street. Some were wor­ry­ing, oth­ers dream­ing, or just sit­ting in si­lence. The same rit­ual is played out each evening in Morocco, the desert king­dom in Africa’s north­west . . .’

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