THE IN­SID­ERS I BUENOS AIRES

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Destination Afloat - JEREMY LIND­BLAD

STAY:

SHOP:

EAT:

Arandu At this ta­l­abar­te­ria (leather and crafts shop) in Reco­leta, I buy gau­cho belts and es­padrilles. There’s also polo gear (the na­tion’s favourite sport), from sad­dles and breeches to boots and bags; arandu.com.ar.

EX­PLORE:

ES­CAPE:

Park Hy­att Pala­cio Duhau On the most beau­ti­ful block in the Ar­gen­tine cap­i­tal’s Reco­leta dis­trict, the ho­tel has rooms in a grand 1930s French-style palace and a sep­a­rate con­tem­po­rary tower, linked by a beau­ti­ful ter­race gar­den; buenosaires.parkhy­att.com.

Fueguia 1833 A won­der­ful ‘‘scent bou­tique’’ near the Park Hy­att where cus­tomers can de­velop fra­grances with owner Ju­lian Bedel, who says scent can trans­port you to a dif­fer­ent world — per­haps the Ar­gen­tinian coun­try­side or glacial Patag­o­nia. The store also sells can­dles and room sprays; fueguia.com. Fabry Venta At this ex­cel­lent store at Guido 1667 in Palermo, owner Julio makes the most in­cred­i­ble men’s dress shoes at in­cred­i­bly good prices.

Patag­o­nia Sur Chef Fran­cis Mall­mann’s tem­ple to Ar­gen­tinian cui­sine is lo­cated in a 1920s Ital­ianate house on a graf­fiti-cov­ered cor­ner in edgy La Boca dis­trict. Its col­lec­tions of cook­books and Astier de Vil­latte table­ware would make any restau­ra­teur jeal­ous. Try the veal Mi­lanese; en.restau­ran­tepatag­o­ni­a­sur.com.

With a guide The best way to get to know Buenos Aires’s neigh­bour­hoods — from the Euro­pean-style ar­chi­tec­ture in Reco­leta to the graf­fiti move­ment in Palermo — is on foot. If time is short, the best guide in the city, Diego Cu­rutchet, will treat you to a won­der­ful, anec­do­tal his­tory of the city as you zip around in a pri­vate car; diecuru@gmail.com.

San An­to­nio de Areco This gau­cho town in the coun­try­side 120km north of the city has been de­clared an area of his­toric na­tional in­ter­est. Have a cof­fee in the cen­tral plaza and visit the gau­cho mu­seum, with its won­der­ful col­lec­tion of sil­ver horse tack. The charm­ing Es­tan­cia La Bamba de Areco is a lovely place to spend a night; labam­badeareco.com. Lind­blad Ex­pe­di­tions’ Antarc­tica voy­ages aboard Na­tional Ge­o­graphic Ex­plorer de­part Buenos Aires un­til March; ex­pe­di­tions on Na­tional Ge­o­graphic Orion run from De­cem­ber to Fe­bru­ary. More: ex­pe­di­tions.com.

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