LOVES

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Travel & Indulgence -

THE days of for­mal ho­tel dining, all starched table­cloths and vel­vet seat­ing, surely are com­ing to a close. Har­bour-fac­ing Four Sea­sons Syd­ney has a re­cently opened lobby-level diner that’s at once glam and cheer­fully ca­sual. Pei Mod­ern, a name­sake off­shoot of Mark Best’s Mel­bourne bistro, is based on “bistronomie”, which is all about lo­cally sourced pro­duce and, one sus­pects, old-fash­ioned bon­homie. There’s a wood-fired grill and oven, snap­pily dressed wait staff and a sense of free-flow­ing space with tim­ber floors, ban­quette seat­ing or pol­ished wooden ta­bles, and light­ing that looks a lit­tle bit sci-fi. Matt Ger­man­chis, found­ing chef from Pei Mod­ern Mel­bourne, is at the helm and menus in­clude dishes de­signed to share. Start with wood-fired pep­pers de Padron (ev­ery so of­ten you’ll strike a su­per-hot one), per­haps a plate of de­li­cious salt-cod cro­quettes and then head to the Meat Spot list­ing for, say, Milly Hill lamb shoul­der for two, cooked in chamomile. Week­day lunch menus in­clude an Eat.Pei.Quick op­tion of a speed­ily served two cour­ses and cof­fee for $39, with sides for an ad­di­tional $10. Open lunch Mon­day to Fri­day and din­ner Mon­day to Satur­day. More: peimod­ern.com.au; foursea­sons.com.

SU­SAN KURO­SAWA

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