THE days of formal hotel dining, all starched tablecloths and velvet seating, surely are coming to a close. Harbour-facing Four Seasons Sydney has a recently opened lobby-level diner that’s at once glam and cheerfully casual. Pei Modern, a namesake offshoot of Mark Best’s Melbourne bistro, is based on “bistronomie”, which is all about locally sourced produce and, one suspects, old-fashioned bonhomie. There’s a wood-fired grill and oven, snappily dressed wait staff and a sense of free-flowing space with timber floors, banquette seating or polished wooden tables, and lighting that looks a little bit sci-fi. Matt Germanchis, founding chef from Pei Modern Melbourne, is at the helm and menus include dishes designed to share. Start with wood-fired peppers de Padron (every so often you’ll strike a super-hot one), perhaps a plate of delicious salt-cod croquettes and then head to the Meat Spot listing for, say, Milly Hill lamb shoulder for two, cooked in chamomile. Weekday lunch menus include an Eat.Pei.Quick option of a speedily served two courses and coffee for $39, with sides for an additional $10. Open lunch Monday to Friday and dinner Monday to Saturday. More: peimodern.com.au; fourseasons.com.