Culinary pleasures of Prague on a plate
“THE land that vegetables forgot.” Anthony Bourdain didn’t exactly praise Prague in an episode of No Reservations, but as a Czech, I’m not insulted. Meat is the mainstay of the Czech diet; it’s in our DNA.
With Czech parents, I grew up on meaty dishes such as goulash, mopping up the sauce with doughy houskove knedliky dumplings. On subsequent trips to Prague over the years, I’ve eaten knuckles of pork accompanied by little more than horseradish; Prague ham on thick slices of rye; and juicy klobasa sausages sold by street vendors in Wenceslas Square.
Czech food is honest, uncomplicated and meaty, but in Prague, the gastronomic offerings have evolved since the fall of communism.
Today, organic markets are held on the banks of the Vltava River, trendy cafes serve cold-drip coffee and the city’s Vietnamese population — the third largest immi-