Culi­nary plea­sures of Prague on a plate

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Travel & Indulgence - MICHELLE WRANIK-HICKS

“THE land that veg­eta­bles for­got.” An­thony Bour­dain didn’t ex­actly praise Prague in an episode of No Reser­va­tions, but as a Czech, I’m not in­sulted. Meat is the main­stay of the Czech diet; it’s in our DNA.

With Czech par­ents, I grew up on meaty dishes such as goulash, mop­ping up the sauce with doughy houskove kned­liky dumplings. On sub­se­quent trips to Prague over the years, I’ve eaten knuck­les of pork ac­com­pa­nied by lit­tle more than horse­rad­ish; Prague ham on thick slices of rye; and juicy klobasa sausages sold by street ven­dors in Wences­las Square.

Czech food is hon­est, un­com­pli­cated and meaty, but in Prague, the gas­tro­nomic of­fer­ings have evolved since the fall of com­mu­nism.

To­day, or­ganic mar­kets are held on the banks of the Vl­tava River, trendy cafes serve cold-drip cof­fee and the city’s Viet­namese pop­u­la­tion — the third largest immi-

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