Pop-ups are all the rage, and not just in hipster precincts. Woy Woy Fishermen’s Wharf is my weekend local on the NSW central coast and it has been going strong for more than 40 years. Spanking fresh and sustainable seafood is its trade, both in the retail area and at takeaway tables out front and the pleasantly jumbled restaurant on the pier. Pelicans patrol the surrounding waterway and the feel is coastie-casual. Matty Bennett of soon-to-open The Lucky Bee is NYC was the first “takeover” chef to star here and last weekend Matteo Zamboni of Pilu at Sydney’s Freshwater wowed the crowds with his Sicilian-inspired dishes, including a sunshinecoloured capsicum risotto with albacore tuna and preserved lemon, plus a green pea pannacotta with pineapple and sorrel. Next “hatted” chef on the dinner agenda is Troy Rhoades-Brown (pictured) of Muse in the Hunter Valley (November 6-7), followed by Khanh Nguyen of Mr Wong (December 4-5). Stand by next year for a monthly roster that will include Sepia’s Rhys Connell, Bennelong’s Troy Crisante, Aria’s Ben Turner and a clutch of other top Sydney chefs. From $80 a head; the more the merrier at your table, as dishes are designed to share. More: woywoyfishermenswharf.com.au/woy-woytake-over.