Husky Expedition-Finnmark packages of three or four days cover flights from Heathrow to Alta via Oslo, transfers and driving a husky team, B&B at Stengelsegardenis Lodge and one night at the wilderness cabin. Three-course evening meals, outdoor lunches and warm clothing are also included. Next departures are January 22 and 27 and April 17. More: simplysweden.co.uk. Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel offers accommodation from 2300 krone ($372) a person, including breakfast and transfers from Alta. More: sorrisniva.no. • visitnorway.com • trastiogtrine.no
and late January and arriving at 2pm in twilight, the airport terminal greets me with the temperature “-19C” writ large on a digital screen. By the time we reach our hotel it is -24C and up on the Finnmark plateau it is a constant -32C day and night. We are issued snow boots and snow suits so padded and cumbersome that I manage to pee into the hood of mine in error during a comfort break. But still my toes freeze and we three guests get blisters on our hands from the cold.
Yet all the hardship is made up for in the blank beauty of this Narnia-like wonderland. Sunless daylight the colour of rose quartz illuminates a landscape where dwarf birch laden with snow looks sometimes like intricate sculptures, sometimes like headless monsters frozen in time on a strange planet.
No wonder Norwegian folklore is alive and well in the tales recounted by mushers around their campfires in the wilderness.
Laura Ivill was a guest of Simply Sweden and Trasti & Trine.