Bad and good in food fads

Put down the burger — and can every­one please stop say­ing ‘farm to ta­ble’?

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - TRAVEL & INDULGENCE - JAMES MOR­ROW

Food trends are a fickle busi­ness, per­haps nowhere more so than in Aus­tralia, where our poly­glot cui­sine and some­times af­fected cos­mopoli­tanism make us par­tic­u­larly vul­ner­a­ble to gim­crack mar­ket­ing and ad­vo­cates with a bar­row to push.

But there’s no use deny­ing that Aus­tralia’s food cul­ture sits on shift­ing sands, open to con­stant change. Not for us the Euro­pean ap­proach, which knows that there’s a right way and a wrong way to do things, and will take up arms if some­one sug­gests other­wise. In 2016 ten­sions be­tween France and Italy reached a height not seen since Louis XII seized Milan when a French food web­site sug­gested spaghetti alla car­bonara could be made by boil­ing down far­falle in the same pot with ba­con and sea­son­ing and then plop­ping crème fraiche and a raw egg on top. (The web­site pru­dently took the of­fend­ing video down be­fore the Pa­pal States could raise an army). We in Aus­tralia are happy to em­brace the new, even if it’s barmy.

So with these caveats ring­ing in our ears, al­low us to look at ahead what may be com­ing up for Aus­tralians who like their tucker : the good, the bad, and the ugly.


We haven’t yet seen Ital­ian food twinned up with other cuisines in the same way a gen­er­a­tion of French chefs have em­braced the Asian. That re­sis­tance is break­ing down, how­ever, and we are start­ing to see Ital­ian done with a Ja­panese twist (or is it the other way around?) at din­ers in Sydney such as Zambo in Surry Hills and the sub­lime LuMi Din­ing in Pyr­mont. Count this strongly in the “we like” cat­e­gory.

Turn­ing Ja­panese. Ready-to-cook meals,

and things that give you the il­lu­sion that you’re cook­ing when you’re not. No fu­tur­olo-

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