GO: Mum­bai is In­dia’s largest city and with its pop­u­la­tion of al­most 20 mil­lion squeezed on a tiny par­cel of land, it is teem­ing with life and en­ergy. Home to Bol­ly­wood cinema, the fash­ion in­dus­try and the fi­nan­cial cap­i­tal, you can see side-by-side the coun­try’s her­itage and its push to mod­ernise; in­cred­i­blein­

EN­JOY: Dis­cover the city’s South In­dian hub with a visit to King’s Cir­cle in Matunga. Savour the tastes of masala dosa and fil­ter cof­fee at Cafe Madras and at dusk see the flower sell­ers hawk their gar­lands of marigolds and roses.

EX­PLORE: Mum­bai never re­ally sleeps. Ven­ture out in this busy me­trop­o­lis be­fore it ramps up each day with an early morn­ing bi­cy­cle tour that will re­veal the city in an (al­most) peace­ful state. See the neo-gothic mas­ter­piece that is Vic­to­ria Ter­mi­nus rail­way sta­tion, ride the 3km-long Ma­rine Drive along the Ara­bian Sea and visit Sas­soon Docks to see the morn­ing catch brought ashore.

DRINK: For the most glam­orous out­ing, head to AER, the open-air rooftop bar at the Four Sea­sons Ho­tel. Marvel with cham­pagne and cock­tails at the 360de­gree views of this mega city at sun­set. For a more mod­est bar with a view, stop at Ho­tel Har­bour View in Co­laba. Its rooftop bar has a ca­sual at­mos­phere and im­pres­sive views of the Gate­way of In­dia mon­u­ment and Mum­bai Har­bour; foursea­; viewho­

STAY: The Taj Ma­hal Palace, opened in 1903, is In­dia’s most iconic her­itage ho­tel. In­ter­na­tional and lo­cal visi­tors flock to have their photo taken in front of its fa­mous fa­cade. With the best lo­ca­tion in Mum­bai, just across from the Gate­way of In­dia, a stay at this fab­u­lous prop­erty will set your ex­pe­ri­ence of the city apart; tajho­

DINE: Masala Li­brary by Jiggs Kalra is one of the best places to ex­pe­ri­ence con­tem­po­rary In­dian cui­sine in an el­e­gant set­ting. Mix­ing tra­di­tional recipes with molec­u­lar gas­tron­omy, in­dulge in the tast­ing menu for the ul­ti­mate ex­pe­ri­ence; masalal­i­

Lin­coln Har­ris is a for­mer res­i­dent of Mum­bai and the founder of Re­mark­able East, a Mel­bourne-based com­pany spe­cial­is­ing in small group tours of the sub­con­ti­nent. He will con­duct a North In­dia Re­vealed tour in Septem­ber. More: re­mark­

In­sid­ers edi­tor:

Gra­ham Er­bacher Gra­ham.Er­

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