Bon appetit in Paris paradise
where the purchaser can go, in their own time, and enjoy a personal tasting and learn more about the products. We began with Rue des Martyrs, because that’s my favourite foodie street, and now we offer ‘passports’ for other parts of Paris and also Lyons.”
Another big fan of Martyrs is Elaine Sciolino, the former Paris bureau chief of The New York Times, who has shopped in the street since she moved to the city in 2002 and now lives nearby. Her latest book, The Only Street in Paris: Life on the Rue des Martyrs, was inspired by an article she wrote about her favourite fishmonger closing and the effect it had on the neighbourhood.
The resulting work is an engaging and fascinating overview of this ancient thoroughfare, whose name origin is unclear, and also gives great tips for lunch or dinner.
Cafe Miroir (No 94; open daily) is a welcome sight when you’ve climbed to the north end of the street.
Headed by Sebastien Guenard, who formerly worked at Alain Ducasse’s Aux Lyonnais, this neo-bistro and wine bar serves inventive dishes made with top-quality local, seasonal ingredients such as chicken ballotine on a bed of thin, crisp root vegetables; the three-course lunch is excellent value at €19.50 ($27.50). Accompanying wines, mainly organic and biodynamic, are sourced from leading small producers; you can even buy a bottle or two to take away. Cheers to that.