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The Weekend Australian - Travel - - TRAVEL & INDULGENCE -

‘The sweet, nutty aroma of siz­zling ham al­ways sig­nalled a good meal. As a lit­tle girl grow­ing up in Dali [China], I would peer into the wok, watch­ing my fa­ther stir-fry a lit­tle ham fat be­fore adding the lean pieces … At the ta­ble, my brothers and I would bur­row into the dish with our chop­sticks, ea­ger to fish out lit­tle ruby jew­els of hammy good­ness among the veg­eta­bles … Ham was ex­pen­sive, though, so we didn’t eat it very of­ten. In the mid 1970s in China, ra­tioning was still in full swing. A pound of meat had to last our house­hold a month.’

ZHANG MEI

TRAV­ELS THROUGH DALI (2016)

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