The Weekend Australian - Travel - - TRAVEL & INDULGENCE -

‘This mo­ment came half­way through the jour­ney. High in the Rhodope Moun­tains of the GreekBul­gar­ian bor­der, a ser­pen­tine road climbed to the river gorge and where the road ended at the top, there was a last phan­tom vil­lage with gouged win­dows and a wa­ter­less stone foun­tain. No­body lived there any more. Be­yond the road and the vil­lage — the oak forests of no-man’s land. We think we’ll go through life with­out know­ing the un­canny ex­cept in films, but in that vil­lage I had ex­pe­ri­enced some­thing that struck ter­ror in my heart. I still don’t know if it was real ...’

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