With a decor of crisp blue and white and merry pops of primrose, Da Maria Bali at Petitenget, near Seminyak, feels like a transplanted seaside trattoria from, say, the Amalfi Coast. The effect is all light and bright, rather retro (dig those chairs, last seen on my parents’ patio in the 70s) and la dolce vita. Maurice Terzini of Icebergs at Sydney’s Bondi Beach is behind the new venture and, naturally, the food is Italian, and the aperitivi come in fashionable red and orange mixes with striped straws and twists of citrus. Make mine a jolly Aperol spritz, per favore. There’s a sit-up bar, several dining salons separated by open dividers, and a rear terrace that attracts the party crowd at night and on weekends. Pizzas are cooked Neapolitan style in lava-stone ovens; all are 30cm and come in about a dozen varieties. Or go for house-made pasta, crispy-skinned fish of the day or wood-roasted sardines on bruschetta with tomato and basil. There are bambini portions for junior style-setters, which is a lovely touch, and to finish, perhaps fresh watermelon served over crushed ice with Campari, lime sherbet and chilli salt? Perfetto. Next time I might arrive on a Vespa, Sophia Loreninspired headscarf tied just so. More: damariabali.com.