Dine and shop in style
DA MARIA BALI: Maurice Terzini, of Iceberg’s at Sydney’s Bondi Beach, is behind this trattoria that could have been airlifted from the Amalfi Coast and where, management promises, very day is a carefree Saturday. Cocktails are sensational, 30cm pizzas with about a dozen types of toppings are cooked Neapolitan style in lava-stone ovens; or go for house-made pasta, crispy-skinned fish of the day, snapper crudo with tomato, chilli and marjoram, or wood-roasted sardines on bruschetta with tomato and basil. Highlights of the crisp blue, white and primrose decor are tiled fountains, exuberant chandeliers, retro wrought-iron patio furniture, and oval skylights; at the rear is an open courtyard and DJs hit the joint for party time after 10.30pm; damariabali.com.
SALUMERIA TANAH BARAK: An Italian-influenced bar by a Canggu rice-field with shelves of Campari and Aperol and boasting the dirtiest martini on the island? This tiny spot is great for aperitivi and share plates that feature terrific antipasti, cheese, olives and grissini plus robust dishes such as burrata with extra virgin olive oil, basil and Amed sea salt from east Bali or cured tuna with shaved fennel, pomegranate, mint, chilli and tangerine juice. There are oysters and buckets of prawns on “seafood Mondays”, bright young bartenders and staff in leather butcher’s aprons, royal-blue sofas and low chairs, tiled floors and tiny wire-legged tables. It’s an enjoyable transplant with motorbikes speeding past and cultivated crops beyond. Australian chef Geoff Lindsay has masterminded the enterprise and installed a big red hand-cranked slicer for those pressed meats. Open 4pm-11pm; salumeria.asia.
PELOTON SUPER SHOP: Would you like some bicycle clips with that? This vegan cafe and artisan cycling store offers “plant-based vibrations” but if you can get past the self-conscious naming of dishes, from Lance Lasagna and Team Taco to Pedal-powered Pancakes and Tandem Toast, it’s a great hangout spot in the thick of Canggu’s Jalan Pantai Berawa retail strip. Excellent breakfasts are served from 8am to noon and then the lunch menu powers up until a leisurely 4pm. Fab coffees are made with cashew or almond milk, the house-brewed chai is served with soy and there are four fermented kombucha blends, including passionfruit and vanilla bean; pelotonsupershop.com.
BUNGALOW LIVING: Dangerously close to both Villa Mana and Arnalaya, this tropical-meet-tribal homewares cottage has recently expanded across Jalan Pantai Berawa in Canggu and features the likes of cotton and linen cushions with palm and pineapple motifs, baskets and coasters detailed with cowrie shells and pompoms, seagrass placemats, and chic macrame sunhats. The cute all-day cafe serves organic food, good coffee, energiser juices, smoothies and fabulous cakes and pastries, including French-style apple pie. Look for teddy bears with name tags (Hello! My name is Jax!) made by local women in difficult circumstances who receive the proceeds via a charity cooperative; bungalowlivingbali.com.
THE JUNGLE TRADER: Also on Jalan Pantai Berawa in Canggu, this store has jungle-green ceramics (bowls, vases, teapots and cups) to suit the decor vibe, rattan baskets and lightshades, fearsome-looking carved masks, coconut-shell kitchen ladles, brass bells with rope pulls, and hand-made embroidered linen tiger and leopard toys made for the store by a women’s foundation; instagram.com/thejungletrader.
KIM SOO HOME: It’s worth the 10km drive from Canggu to Bali’s design-central store, Kim Soo Home on Seminyak’s Jalan Kayu Aya, which has recently added The Space Upstairs for themed installations and interiors. The cool white shop is a mecca for lovers of all things Asian and covetable, from wooden deer’s heads ready to mount on walls to platters, pots, baskets. There are fragrant soaps and candles, glossy white ginger jars, shibori cushion covers and beachy clothing. The onsite cafe is a fab breakfast spot (ricotta pancakes, barista coffee) and for morning or afternoon tea out come the towering slices of cake — lemon pound, hummingbird, carrot, choccoconut or dulce de leche; kimsoohome.com.
KEVALA CERAMICS: Now seen at many resorts and restaurants, including the Baturiti range exclusive to T&I’s all-time fave, Hujan Locale at Ubud, Kevala’s handmade table and kitchen wares are charming and original with raised decorations of leaves, flowers, petals, birds, stripes and chevrons. There are shops in Ubud and Petitenget and its products are also sold at the excellent Souq Bali homewares haven and cafe on Jalan Raya Basangkasa in Seminyak; kevalaceramics.com; souqstore.co.
Salumeria Tanah Barak, above left; Bungalow Living, centre; Da Maria Bali