PERENNIAL CROWD PLEASER
THIS BEACHFRONT EATERY CERTAINLY KNOWS THE ROPES AND ITS ADORING PUBLIC KNOWS EXACTLY WHAT IT LIKES
HERE’S an important tip – don’t go to L’unico looking anything less than your personal best.
You’re almost certain to bump into people you know.
It’s that kind of place, a true locals’ haunt, a place where folk go to hang out with friends, see and be seen in the most beachy casual way, with good food and drink.
We’ve been coming here for more than 10 years and it is the utter consistency that ensures L’unico’s unrivalled popularity in this arena.
There’s never really a bad time to visit this busy trattoria, but tonight it is in its element – the weather is perfect, there’s a light breeze coming in off the ocean and the mood is civilised joviality.
The house is full and we’re relieved we’ve had forethought to book.
A table for two on the verandah is perfection, with the moonlit waves lapping audibly along with laughter, the soft clink of glasses and odd pop of a cork.
We have a bottle of food-friendly Adelaide Hills pinot grigio on ice (sportingly labelled Franco Baresi) in anticipation of L’unico’s seared scallops with truffle emulsion and a deftly light touch of chilli.
It’s a good marriage of delicate flavours, the honeydew hints in the wine allowing the subtlety of fresh seafood to shine.
We’ve stocked up with another starter which is a tad heartier, a veggie stack with melted goat’s cheese.
One a bed of rocket, grilled eggplant, red pepper and a slab of pumpkin, it would make a suitable main for a light appetite.
A plate of mussels with toasted focaccia being served nearby has caught the eye of many diners who are lecherously coveting. Not only visually impressive, it smells good too.
To finish we’re sharing a pizza of rocket, prosciutto crudo and parmesan, it’s impeccably simple, proving not every meal has to be elaborate to be perfect. The crust is thin and crisp, the ingredients fresh and plentiful.
Service is forgivably patchy if you take into account the sheer industry of your surrounds.
Everyone seems happy enough though.