NEPTUNE IS BRINGING its A-game with a host of quality seafood in a can – the way the Spanish have done it since the invention of the can opener. There are few things better in life than a glass of Rieslingfreak No. 3 married to an extended family of meaty little cockles tinned in their prime. Load them up on a potato chip, add a dash of herby caper sauce and a squeeze of lemon and consume. Repeat. Just as compelling is the tarama-like cod roe, beaten to within an inch of its life with sourdough and topped with a flourish of bottarga. And the ’nduja jaffle, a cheesy, buttery, high-gi white bread beauty in thrall to the chilli thrill of the Calabrian salami paste. But you’ll probably admire the chutzpah of calling the halved red grapes gracing butterflied sardines a gremolata more than the dish itself. Snapper crudo is like a ceviche lost a bet, the integrity of the protein corrupted by a whomping hand on the acid. And in 2017 the use of truffle oil, seen here adding its Lynx effect to a rustic plate of soft polenta and a braised mushroom jumble, is cause for spanking. Funnily enough, one of the best dishes on chef Daniel Natali’s menu is steak frites – a fullflavoured piece of full-blood Wagyu hanger cooked to the perfect, dark livery centre. Steak somehow makes sense after all that seafood. As does a dessert of poached quince and Chinotto quince jelly with a calming snowfall of burrata granita.