The Recre­ation Bistro

Time Out (Melbourne) - - FOOD AWARDS 2017 - By Fred Sig­gins

The Recre­ation’s food and wine matches go to­gether like Bey­oncé and Jay Z.

A HER­ITAGE BUILD­ING on a wide cor­ner of Queens Pa­rade in Fitzroy North is home to this bistro of sim­ple charm and util­ity. Watch your per­fect tagli­atelle be­ing rolled to or­der in the open kitchen, its oc­cu­pants seem­ingly never stressed. Served with Ital­ian flag colours of bright green onions, red chilli and pale crab­meat, it’s the sort of ideal sim­plic­ity that only true love can con­jure. And just as flex­i­ble as the food is the bril­liant wine pro­gram, the purview of vet­er­ans Joe Durrant and Mark Protheroe (ex-grossi Florentino) who co-own the Recre­ation with chef Steven Nel­son. The choices are ra­zor sharp, fo­cus­ing on un­com­mon lo­cal and Euro­pean pro­duc­ers. A herba­ceous gamay has more power than your stan­dard quaf­fer, with enough weight and crunch to bal­ance the sweet­ness and funk of a pear and blood pud­ding tart tartin. It’s a pair­ing that re­minds you how good pair­ings can be. But not only can you drink great wine here, you can also bring your own, or buy bot­tles at far cheaper prices to take away thanks to a multi-func­tion liquor li­cence. De­signed to be in and of the com­mu­nity, they’re a rep­re­sen­ta­tion of what makes this one of the world’s great hos­pi­tal­ity cities. 162-170 Queens Pde, Fitzroy North 3068. 03 9042 2707. www.the-recre­ation.com.

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