Bar Tini

When the spirit of a Span­ish bodega gets trapped in a Mel­bourne laneway, we get bars like this

Time Out (Melbourne) - - BAR AWARDS -

HOSIER LANE IS no­to­ri­ous for its street art’s ’gramma­bil­ity and is of­ten the star of wed­ding pho­tos for cou­ples un­der 30. More im­por­tantly, it’s also been home to Movida for the last ten years. With all that foot traf­fic (and the killer Span­ish food) it’s not sur­pris­ing that Movida has never had a prob­lem fill­ing its seats. So much so that it has ex­panded op­er­a­tions, tak­ing over laneway sta­ple, Misty, which has had more facelifts than Jan­ice Dickinson.

Un­like its older, slightly more for­mal coun­ter­part, Bar Tini is in­spired by the bode­gas you stum­ble upon by ac­ci­dent in Spain: where sherry and ver­mouth flow freely, cured legs of Iberico pigs are an ac­cept­able meal, and pre­mium seafood comes out of a can. The cheers here fo­cus on for­ti­fieds, with a big se­lec­tion of sher­ries (six by the glass, 13 by the bot­tle) and a hefty wine list you’ll have to ask for, for­mat­ted by re­gions in Spain, with de­scrip­tion of the ge­og­ra­phy and what to ex­pect from wines in those ar­eas. This will prove par­tic­u­larly help­ful as ser­vice is all at the bar, keep­ing in line with those ca­sual vibes. Not sure what to drink? One of the taps here is ded­i­cated to Casa Mar­iol’s Ver­mut Ne­gre, a rich, dark ver­mouth made from more than 100 in­gre­di­ents. It’s served over ice in a 100ml pour at $14, which is a good way to whet your ap­petite and usher you to­wards the snacks.

On the food front, there are oblig­a­tory cro­quettes, tor­tillas and small­go­ods, but you should save your­self for the canned seafood, such as sweet and briny ra­zor clams, oily baby sar­dines or stuffed cala­mari. This isn’t the stuff that John West thinks is best, but top-qual­ity seafood caught and cleaned by hand, pre­served and boldly served stand­alone with house­made sour­dough. Can’t dish out that much on tins? The seafood plate will set you back $25 and fea­tures daily items like a heav­ily spiced, fatty, thick­cut salmon pas­trami and lightly pick­led fil­lets of sar­dines and an­chovies with guindilla pep­pers and cock­tail onions, next to more of that sig­na­ture loaf. Of course, the Span­ish ac­cent here comes with Mel­bourne tastes, so the mo­lette ($7.50) is a small toasted sand­wich over­flow­ing with moz­zarella, kim­chi, an­chovy and ham – an im­por­tant build­ing block to any drink­ing ses­sion and a de­li­cious take on the An­dalucían sarnie. For now, the bar only serves as a bar, but the Bar Tini crew have plans to op­er­ate as a bot­tle shop and pantry as soon as the coun­cil ap­proves it. Not that Mel­bourne needed another ex­cuse to go down Hosier Lane, but since they’re of­fer­ing, we’ll take it. 3- 5 Hosier Ln, Mel­bourne 3000. 03 9663 3038. bar­tini.com.au. Daily 5pm-late.

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