Della Hyde

Time Out (Sydney) - - FOOD & DRINK -

From the ashes of Phoenix rises a luxe lobby bar. By Emily Lloyd-Tait We don’t know about you, but if we can’t be down­ing fruity cock­tails on a rooftop, an un­der­ground bar styled to look like a cross be­tween the Grand Bu­dapest Ho­tel and a Ve­gas boudoir is a solid back-up op­tion. The space that once housed the late night­club Phoenix has been doused in pas­tel pink and kit­ted out like a fancy ho­tel lobby by the theme-lov­ing team that brought you the Botanist and SoCal on the north side, the But­ler in Potts Point and Bondi Hard­ware. This time round the brief is old vin­tage opu­lence, so there are rings of dress­ing-room lights around the arches be­hind the bar, white bent­wood chairs, ex­posed brick and fans spin­ning lazily over­head to keep things fresh.

If you need a lit­tle perk­ing up, the bal­ance in the Hyde Espresso is a lit­tle off with the heavy roasted flavours dom­i­nat­ing the drink, so for coffee cock­tails we’re go­ing to go for an­other round of the Count Ne­groni’s Cold Drip, a riff on ev­ery­one’s favourite three­part aper­i­tif that uses coffee-in­fused gin, ver­mouth, or­ange bit­ters and Or­ange Colombo in place of Cam­pari. It’s sweeter and more cit­rusy than the orig­i­nal, but with a toasty back­bone. The Della Pringle’s Tin­gle might sound like a vin­tage vaude­ville act, but it’s far more en­ter­tain­ing as a long, re­fresh­ing cock­tail of gin, ver­mouth, mango, basil, lemon juice, bit­ters and soda.

We’re see­ing cro­quettes pop­ping up on menus all over the city this year, but th­ese guys do them bet­ter than most, pack­ing the crunchy bul­lets of mashed potato with whole green peas and salty pancetta and adding a swipe of harissa mayo to the mix.

Ox­ford Street has been haem­or­rhag­ing bars at an alarm­ing rate since the lock­outs came into ef­fect. The old soul on the stereo and the kitschy hol­i­day vibes of this new ad­di­tion are dou­bly wel­come.

Della Hyde 34 Ox­ford St, Dar­linghurst 2010. del­ Tue-Sun 5pm-late.

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