Jade Tem­ple

Old-school Chi­nese in the CBD is a time warp we want to do again, and again

Time Out (Sydney) - - FOOD & DRINK -

WHEN WAS THE last time you had le­mon chicken? The en­trylevel Chi­nese dish might have had a star­ring role in your fam­ily nights out dur­ing the 1980s, but as aware­ness of re­gional Chi­nese cui­sine grew, sub­ur­ban clas­sics took a back seat. But ev­ery­thing old is new again and Neil Perry has stepped up as the cham­pion for old-school Chi­nese with the open­ing of Jade Tem­ple. Perry shut­tered his fine diner, Rock­pool 1989, ear­lier this year and an­nounced that in its place he would be open­ing a snazzy Can­tonese restau­rant. The news caused a stir be­cause at Jade Tem­ple, Perry and head chef Peter Robert­son would be go­ing back to the fu­ture, giv­ing the likes of salt and pep­per squid, prawn toast and kung pow chicken lauded spots on the menu. We now have a very good rea­son to get dressed up on a Sun­day and head into the city for a boozy lunch, and that rea­son is the prawn and scal­lop siu mai, given a solid paddy whack­ing with white pep­per and packed un­til their wrap­pers are strain­ing. Pudgy prawn har gow loaded with MSC Spencer Gulf prawns are the right kind of sticky – not the kind that sticks to your teeth. They are one-bite won­ders gen­tly hum­ming with ginger. Cool off with pick­led, soft, ridged cu­cum­ber with squashy, earthy black mush­room fronds and rib­bons of ginger that parry the vine­gar with spice, and do not leave with­out a little Jenga pile of sesame-crusted prawn toasts that are ex­tra crunchy and car­ry­ing a sur­prise flavour hit from diced ham in the fill­ing. As for the le­mon chicken: free range birds from Ban­nock­burn are wrapped in bat­ter and deep fried the kind of crisp bronze you’d ex­pect to see on a Greek beach. They pour the le­mon glaze over at the ta­ble, so that un­der the sweet, pucker-wor­thy sauce you’ve still got crunch for days. If you feel like day drink­ing, do it here. Ryan Gavin has de­signed a diplo­matic cock­tail list that se­duces booze-first fans with the likes of the Jade Em­peror, a take on a Mar­tini mixed with a Man­hat­tan. Vodka, Char­treuse, Amaretto and dry ver­mouth don’t seem like peo­ple you want to party with so early in the day, but when their pow­ers are com­bined the re­sult is a clean, dry fruiti­ness rem­i­nis­cent of a plum wine. And it’s never too early for a glass of the min­eral-driven grüner velt­liner from Ober­loiben, a small re­gion in Aus­tria along the Danube. In fact, they’ve got a whole page ded­i­cated to the Wachau re­gion if you want a swift ed­u­ca­tion in eight glasses. Heck yes, you can get deep-fried ice cream for dessert, but as loath as we are to steer you from this pro­found child­hood joy that taught you that hot and cold are not op­po­sites when it comes to dessert, you should or­der the Flavours of Phil’s vacherin in­stead. This is a trib­ute dessert to Rock­pool’s for­mer head chef, Phil Wood, who is now cook­ing on a vine­yard on the Morn­ing­ton Penin­sula. A little fortress of meringue discs shields a trop­i­cal ca­coph­ony played pi­anis­simo, with a forth­right lime granita, a pan­dan mousse and sor­bet, and toasted co­conut. ■ Emily Lloy­dTait à 11 Bridge St, Syd­ney 2000. 02 9252 1888. www.jade­tem­ple.com.au/home/menu. Mon-Sat noon-3pm & 5.30-11pm; Sun noon-3pm & 5.30-10pm. $$$$

Heck, yes you can get deep fried ice cream

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.