ON HIS HAIR: ON SHANE DORIAN:
I need a haircut. (Laughs). He’s a madman. He scares me. Just watching him surf makes me nervous. Did you see him while he was here in Bali?
No. Those other REEF team guys were playing down at a different playground. Canggu or something. I was sur ng Uluwatu area. I don’t think they like to go left. (Laughs). But Shane? I just I think he’s a really special animal. He’s smart...very smart, self-educated…and very skillful and… disciplined. Extremely skillful. Obviously. And that discipline. Man. We should all be so lucky to have that discipline. And...you know, when he was on tour he was one of the best shortboarders in the world. Top ve. And then to transcend that to get to where he is now? I think people forget what a radical, unbelievable small wave surfer he was. Committed maneuvers, style, aggression, never wiping out…And Pipe? And Teahupoo? Man…Shane transcended the pro world and now he is the best big wave surfer in the world. Right? He took that incredible discipline and skill and applied it to riding massive waves. Paddling into massive waves. He was always crazy that way. He had this weird kind of spark that was just like… I remember being out at some outer reef with Shane, I got caught inside by a 20 foot set. And I was scared. I was really scared and I looked over at Shane and he had that smile. And I was on the verge of panic. Real panic. But then I looked at Shane and I was like…well, ok, if he is smiling then I might not need to panic. It relieved me. Being out there with someone so…competent. He got me through that bad moment with that one look. I know for sure things would have been very different if he hadn’t of been there. I might not even be here if not for that smile.