ON HIS HAIR: ON SHANE DO­RIAN:

Tracks - - Surfing Smarter -

I need a hair­cut. (Laughs). He’s a mad­man. He scares me. Just watch­ing him surf makes me ner­vous. Did you see him while he was here in Bali?

No. Those other REEF team guys were play­ing down at a dif­fer­ent play­ground. Canggu or some­thing. I was sur ng Uluwatu area. I don’t think they like to go left. (Laughs). But Shane? I just I think he’s a re­ally spe­cial an­i­mal. He’s smart...very smart, self-ed­u­cated…and very skill­ful and… dis­ci­plined. Ex­tremely skill­ful. Ob­vi­ously. And that dis­ci­pline. Man. We should all be so lucky to have that dis­ci­pline. And...you know, when he was on tour he was one of the best short­board­ers in the world. Top ve. And then to tran­scend that to get to where he is now? I think peo­ple for­get what a rad­i­cal, un­be­liev­able small wave surfer he was. Com­mit­ted ma­neu­vers, style, ag­gres­sion, never wip­ing out…And Pipe? And Teahupoo? Man…Shane tran­scended the pro world and now he is the best big wave surfer in the world. Right? He took that in­cred­i­ble dis­ci­pline and skill and ap­plied it to rid­ing mas­sive waves. Pad­dling into mas­sive waves. He was al­ways crazy that way. He had this weird kind of spark that was just like… I re­mem­ber be­ing out at some outer reef with Shane, I got caught in­side by a 20 foot set. And I was scared. I was re­ally scared and I looked over at Shane and he had that smile. And I was on the verge of panic. Real panic. But then I looked at Shane and I was like…well, ok, if he is smil­ing then I might not need to panic. It re­lieved me. Be­ing out there with some­one so…com­pe­tent. He got me through that bad mo­ment with that one look. I know for sure things would have been very dif­fer­ent if he hadn’t of been there. I might not even be here if not for that smile.

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