Tracks - - Surfing Smarter -

I went and vis­ited Jesse in the hos­pi­tal af­ter his ac­ci­dent and you could tell that he was not will­ing to ac­cept be­ing what was dealt. You know they had prob­a­bly told him that he was par­a­lyzed and that he would never walk again but he was like…No prob­lem, I am go­ing to gure some­thing out. That look in his eye. The di­ag­no­sis was right…but Jesse’s will was righter…He went on to blow peo­ple’s minds and he still does. That brand of courage… that will to never give up… his slo­gan life rolls on… he does ev­ery­thing we all do. He nds a way. I was there the rst day he caught a wave af­ter the ac­ci­dent. And it was crazy. It was a life chang­ing ex­pe­ri­ence for me. For ev­ery­one that saw it. And I re­mem­ber two years af­ter that he asked me, he said, Hey Rob, can you come to Tavarua with me? I am go­ing to get bar­relled!” And I was nally like… WHAT did you just say? And he ended up get­ting towed into a six foot wave at Cloud­break and get­ting bar­relled. Then he surfed Sun­set, broke his fe­mur sur ng Sun­set. Wow. And now he has th­ese events called THEY WILL SURF AGAIN and it’s so cool. They go down to the beach and set up ac­cess for the par­a­lyzed surfers and they have like 300 vol­un­teers and they take th­ese surfers out of their wheel­chairs and they put them on the right board and they…go sur ng. And you sit there watch­ing th­ese peo­ple ride waves like no oth­ers. I have talked to peo­ple who live for this event. Who have a gi­ant mark on their cal­en­dar just wait­ing for the day whether they are vol­un­teers or in a wheel­chair…it is the most pos­i­tive sur ng event on the planet and I think that says a lot about Jesse Billauer. I don’t think I would ever have the courage to do what he has done.

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