ON JESSE BILLAUER:
I went and visited Jesse in the hospital after his accident and you could tell that he was not willing to accept being what was dealt. You know they had probably told him that he was paralyzed and that he would never walk again but he was like…No problem, I am going to gure something out. That look in his eye. The diagnosis was right…but Jesse’s will was righter…He went on to blow people’s minds and he still does. That brand of courage… that will to never give up… his slogan life rolls on… he does everything we all do. He nds a way. I was there the rst day he caught a wave after the accident. And it was crazy. It was a life changing experience for me. For everyone that saw it. And I remember two years after that he asked me, he said, Hey Rob, can you come to Tavarua with me? I am going to get barrelled!” And I was nally like… WHAT did you just say? And he ended up getting towed into a six foot wave at Cloudbreak and getting barrelled. Then he surfed Sunset, broke his femur sur ng Sunset. Wow. And now he has these events called THEY WILL SURF AGAIN and it’s so cool. They go down to the beach and set up access for the paralyzed surfers and they have like 300 volunteers and they take these surfers out of their wheelchairs and they put them on the right board and they…go sur ng. And you sit there watching these people ride waves like no others. I have talked to people who live for this event. Who have a giant mark on their calendar just waiting for the day whether they are volunteers or in a wheelchair…it is the most positive sur ng event on the planet and I think that says a lot about Jesse Billauer. I don’t think I would ever have the courage to do what he has done.