CYCLADES CALLING
The Greek island of Mykonos in the Cyclades group of islands has layers that are unveiled beyond its stunning shores, in the heart of its winding laneways.
The magic of Mykonos in the Cyclades groups of islands, Greece
IT’S 7AM AND I’M FLOATING ON MY BACK in the clear waters of the Aegean sea at Elia beach on Mykonos – an island in the Cyclades group. The rocky escarpment that overlooks this pebble-stoned stretch is dotted with white, lime-washed buildings that make up a number of hotel and villa buildings within the Myconian Hotels & Resorts collection. The early morning sun is forming pockets of pale pink clouds in the sky above the cobalt blue sea; roosters have crowed their morning greeting; and a striped Greek flag flaps in the breeze above a dome-topped chapel. I am buoyed by the salty water, staring upwards as the morning sun rises over the cliff and winks down at me. I take in the solitude before being joined by a couple; and as the first jet-ski rider of the day fires up, I’m drying off and heading back up the hill to a decadent breakfast, served with champagne, on the terrace of the Myconian Villa Collection.
Mykonos is one of the fastest-growing islands in all of Europe. Long known for its vibrant party scene, the idyllic destination is one of contrasts with much to offer for travellers. Last year, Qatar Airways introduced five weekly seasonal flights direct to the island from its hub in Doha in the Middle East, allowing Australian passengers a simpler route than flying via the UK or Europe.
The island’s landmark traditional windmills are perched on a hill in the main town of Chora, overlooking Little Venice beach which swells with people when the sun goes down. I am here to
view one of the most romantic (and most photographed) sunsets in the world. The narrow and winding streets of Chora reveal the quintessential, postcard-worthy charm of the Greek islands – with white-washed pebble-stoned paved laneways; vivid blue and red doors and shutters; blazing pink bougainvillea; family chapels (there’s more than 1000 on the island); and cats snoozing in doorways. The government very wisely enforced a law in the 1930s that all structures on the island must be built in the traditional shape and style. They had to be white-washed, and neon signs were completely banned. This visionary law has preserved the authentic appeal of Mykonos and has retained its allure – not only in the old town but throughout the entire island. There are no high-rise, internationalchain hotels anywhere to be seen.
Amid the laneways of houses, rental apartments and accommodation is a mix of high-end, artisanal and souvenir shops. A Louis Vuitton store appears on the same street as a souvenir shop selling just about any object you can imagine decorated with the Greek ‘evil-eye’ symbol, said to ward off and protect against negative energy.
Mykonos also cultivates a thriving arts scene with a number of contemporary galleries throughout the island, many built more than 350 years ago using ancient building materials. In 2018, the island introduced the annual Mykonos Arts Festival, to be held each summer. On a walking tour, our guide Amaryllis Grypari shows us through a discrete entrance to one of the island’s best-kept secrets – ‘Cine Mando’. This outdoor cinema, café and bar is where locals gather to watch the latest blockbusters underneath the skies on plastic white chairs, and dine in an enormous tree-shaded courtyard.
I’m staying at the Über-chic, five-star Myconian Villa Collection, part of the family-owned Myconian Collection group of nine hotels and resorts which are located in different parts of the island. From the airport, I’m whisked away in a luxurious white Mercedes van and driven through the winding roads, steep barren hillsides and narrow streets before arriving at my hotel, where a vintage Bentley Corniche is permanently posing like a glamour puss in the driveway. It’s hard to divert my eyes from the elevated views over Elia beach, but staff member Katerina approaches, appearing to almost float like a Grecian goddesses in her uniform – an elegant, floor-length black dress. It’s apparent that this hotel, the only one in Greece to be awarded ‘Legend Collection’ status as a member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts, has art and design running through its white-hot core. A gallery by renowned Artion Galleries, based in Geneva and Athens, is positioned in the lobby with a range of eclectic artworks available for purchase. The reception desk is a large sculptured piece of timber while conical-shaped pendants hang low.
From my room’s balcony, I can see more white-washed buildings and hotel rooms that form part of the Myconian Collection, nestled into the hillside. Out front, the waters of the Aegean are glistening, rippled by the motion of the occasional yacht or jet-ski breaking its stillness; directly below, I spot the edge of my hotel’s infinity pool.