Fresh Takes

Chef Luke Man­gan’s top picks of new Aus­tralian eater­ies.

Virgin Australia Voyeur - - CONTENTS -

MEL­BOURNE Kisumé

Fa­mous for Chin Chin, Baby and Kong, The Lu­cas Group has un­veiled Kisumé in the heart of Mel­bourne’s CBD.

Kisumé, mean­ing ‘a pure ob­ses­sion with beauty’, is con­tem­po­rary Ja­panese with min­i­mal­ist in­te­ri­ors. It spans three lev­els to in­clude the main restau­rant, a sushi bar and an in­ti­mate omakase (cour­ses se­lected by the chef) din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence for 12.

Head chef K S Moon and the sushi masters cre­ate dishes with a fo­cus on the fresh­est seafood. Steamed king crab gy­oza with quail egg and bonito vinai­grette is a Kisumé sig­na­ture, and the sushi bar of­fers spe­cial­ity rolls and sashimi.

175 Flin­ders Ln, Mel­bourne; www.kisume.com.au.

SYD­NEY Pa­per Bird

From the brains be­hind (the now closed) Moon Park at Red­fern comes Pa­per Bird, with an all-day menu that branches out across Ko­rea, Ja­pan, China and Tai­wan.

For break­fast, you can’t go past the Hong Kong French toast, while the cult clas­sic shrimp-brined fried chicken with soy and syrup is also a must-try.

The restau­rant of­fers a nat­u­ral-fo­cused wine list, with plenty of sake and a se­lec­tion of beers. 46A Ma­cleay St, Potts Point; www.pa­per­bir­drestau­rant.com.

TAS­MA­NIA Agrar­ian Kitchen Eatery & Store

Ac­claimed coun­try­side cook­ing school and farm The Agrar­ian Kitchen has opened its Agrar­ian Kitchen Eatery & Store in pretty New Nor­folk, a 30-minute drive north-west of Ho­bart.

Work­ing with lo­cal sup­pli­ers and also sourc­ing in­gre­di­ents from their own farm, own­ers Rod­ney Dunn and Séver­ine De­manet of­fer a truly unique restau­rant ex­pe­ri­ence.

The menu is cre­ated us­ing in­gre­di­ents avail­able on the day and is cooked in their wood­fired oven, grill and hot smoker. Dishes can range from woodroasted cab­bage served with dried mus­sel sauce and ap­ple, to hot-smoked bay trout with buckwheat, shell­fish but­ter and cab­bage, or even pump­kin dough­nuts with whisky sauce. 11A The Av­enue, New Nor­folk; www.thea­grar­i­ankitchen.com.

BRIS­BANE De­tour

The first solo ven­ture for for­mer Pub­lic head chef Da­mon Amos is a 140-seater restau­rant in a her­itage-listed build­ing. It has been trans­formed into a warm space fea­tur­ing ex­posed brick, orig­i­nal steel beams, min­i­mal­ist in­te­ri­ors and an open kitchen, putting the fo­cus squarely on the food.

Amos’s menu is di­vided into Om­ni­vore — with dishes such as gun­pow­der salmon, green curry and black ants — and Her­bi­vore, where veg­eta­bles are the star of the show. High­lights in­clude smoked pump­kin with maple, mus­tard and pepi­tas.

The wine list show­cases small Aus­tralian pro­duc­ers us­ing bio­dy­namic and min­i­mal-in­ter­ven­tion tech­niques.

6/11 Lo­gan Rd, Wol­loongabba; www. de­tour­restau­rant.com.au.

CLOCK­WISE FROM LEFT Sushi at Kisumé; Agrar­ian Kitchen Eatery & Store; De­tour has a menu split into Om­ni­vore and Her­bi­vore sec­tions; the span­ner crab at Pa­per Bird.

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