2017 White Mi­lano

Vision Magazine - - Contents - english Text by ava Zhang Chi­nese Text by ge­or­gia xia

米蘭時裝週

米蘭時裝週是國際四大知名時尚焦點之一,相比於巴黎、紐約和倫敦,米蘭崛起的最晚,但卻一躍成為世界最頂尖也獨佔鰲頭的時裝秀。一年兩次,分別是九月的春夏和二月的冬秋,不但聚集眾家精華元素,更以設計風格和布料色係引領風騷。世界時裝設計師以及各大品牌公認米蘭時裝是全球時尚及消費者的指南針。

Mi­lan Fash­ion week is one of four ma­jor in­ter­na­tional fash­ion ex­trav­a­gan­zas along­side Paris, Lon­don and New York.

The sar­to­rial spec­ta­cle takes place twice a year, in Septem­ber to sig­nal the spring/sum­mer styles and Fe­bru­ary to flag the autumn/win­ter col­lec­tions. The run­way fea­tures an assem­bly line of cov­eted de­sign­ers, high­light­ing the new styles and hues of the in­com­ing sea­son.

This ro­man­tic city is Italy’s fash­ion cap­i­tal and the world’s fash­ion com­pass.the Fe­bru­ary shows took an un­ex­pected turn- in­stead of the

vi­brant colours that usu­ally grace the spring and sum­mer sea­sons, this year’s cou­ture was dom­i­nated by a more sub­dued pal­ette of flat­ter, greyer tones. Gone were the em­bel­lish­ments and flam­boy­ant pat­terns of pre­vi­ous sea­sons- yet the quiet grey shades still in­spired cre­ativ­ity and pas­sion. The re­strained hues re­called a Floren­tine feel, the lonely tones stir­ring a re­treat into a ro­man­tic rev­erie.

This mood of quiet lux­ury con­tin­ued through the autumn/ win­ter col­lec­tions, with lay­ers of grey em­u­lat­ing a quintessen­tially Bri­tish style.

2017春夏季女士時尚以冷淡灰色調系主控全場,作為秀場唯一的色彩少了過多的裝飾及浮華誇張的圖案,卻激發著人們的聯想、激情以及創造力。有人評價為,以單調的色彩啟發佛羅倫斯萬種風情,孤獨的色調以退為進,創造人們無限浪漫的遐想。當然,這樣的激發將一直延續到秋冬,冷酷的灰以漸近的色彩配上布料層次,不但不古板,反倒點出英倫式的風範。

節奏一變,中規中矩的圓舞曲成為現代樂的設計時尚,整個秀場被突來的大色塊加入質感,強調簡潔卻又點綴高貴的因子,也展現女性柔軟中的堅韌。

菲拉格慕成為女裝的焦點,奢華的女裝以宮廷風格迸發出新趣、華貴、浪漫和現代。

走出灰色後,原色色盤被搬上舞台,不經調色的亮黃、翠綠、寶藍以及正紅,僅以服裝設計加入多邊或輔助配飾,以強大的視覺衝擊成為賣點。國際設計師評價為,都市女性的果敢是不允許摻雜其他元素,不用粉黛不飾金,就是大膽卻極具創意的色彩展示。

The fickle fash­ion scene did fea­ture a brief turn in style away from the ex­pres­sive grey tones that dom­i­nated the show. Many de­sign­ers spun the colour wheel on the run­way with sim­ple state­ment de­signs fea­tur­ing care­fully cu­rated em­bel­lish­ments. The styles evoked touches of fem­i­nin­ity along­side stead­fast strength, the em­bod­i­ment of the tena­cious mod­ern woman.

Fer­rag­amo stole the spot­light with a rein­vig­o­ra­tion of courtly style that speaks of ro­mance, lux­ury and moder­nity.

A burst of colour graced the run­way with ca­nary yel­low, emer­ald green, sap­phire blue and ruby red, con­trast­ing with the sub­tle grey tones. State­ment pieces were stripped of adorn­ments, with bold min­i­mal­ism mak­ing a strong vis­ual im­pact. This col­lec­tion is for the pow­er­ful woman who re­lies solely on colour to make a splash.

Min­i­mal­ism was key to the state­ment pieces of autumn/win­ter, with a strik­ing ac­ces­sory-free look, con­trast­ing with the spring/sum­mer col­lec­tions that were a plat­form for colour­ful jew­els to shine on the stage. Heavy pen­dants and thick metal chains caught the eye of show-go­ers.

莫斯其諾(Moschino)的環保設計讓人眼前一亮,設計師將對世界和平的渴望和生命的熱愛融入時尚,秋冬季設計更是融入環保概念。其創意總監 Jeremy Scott ,將紙箱和廢棄的舊雜誌搬上秀台,大片的拼貼來自時尚雜誌Vogue,外界評價, Scott 智慧的映射出,人們追求的其實就是時尚這座金字塔的Logo。

Moschino used the run­way to raise aware­ness (and per­haps eye­brows) about en­vi­ron­men­tal is­sues, fea­tur­ing pieces made from up­cy­cled ma­te­ri­als. Creative di­rec­tor Jeremy Scott says the pieces have been made from “what peo­ple dis­card.” The show fea­tured a pa­rade of mod­els wrapped in card­board, a skirt fash­ioned from a shower cur­tain, gowns made of duct tape and rub­bish bag frocks.

This year’s fash­ion show cel­e­brated the evo­lu­tion of woman, with sar­to­rial splen­dour used to high­light fem­i­nine strength in a state­ment show­case.

春夏之際的華麗彩寶成為亮點之一,厚重的掛墜、粗實的金屬鏈、讓人無法忽視的單耳肩環,不是點綴卻挑眼。步入秋冬的裝扮,已一掃亮麗,更主張收斂,凸顯智慧還是暫表深沉,或欲擒故縱的俏皮和活力,都顯在眼上。

有人說,時尚是每40 年一次的循環。40年前一絲不苟的商業女士從社會底層初露頭角,代代演變的女性步入光芒萬丈,已走到讓人不敢直視的頂峰。設計師,再次推陳出新,時尚回到原點,再次標榜的就是傳統!

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