New York Fash­ion Week時尚與藝術的火花

Vision Magazine - - Contents - CHI­NESE TEXT BY GE­OR­GIA XIA ENGLISH TEXT BY JEN­NIFER HSI PHOTO CREDIT: IM­AGE.NET

The world’s lead­ing fash­ion week launched this year with a whole new di­rec­tion, in­te­grat­ing art with fash­ion. Each la­bel fea­tured drew on the con­cept of en­tirety, with stun­ning cre­ations grac­ing the mod­els like unique works of art.

引領世界潮流風格的時尚,今年又有新動向,時裝與藝術結合,品牌創意邁入整體概念,走在秀場的模特兒似乎就是一件件獨特的藝術品。

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月中舉行的 2018‧ 紐約春夏時裝季的會場中,已經一掃秋冬季的灰色厚色搭配,取而代之的是挑眼的強烈色彩對比,善用花、條、紋等設計,完美融入各個視覺空間。社會視時裝為藝術品,強調的是單件時裝或配件,而今年秀場上注重的是整體,模特從頭到腳,甚至五官都成為該藝術品的一部分。

取代誇張的彩妝,運用的是彩金面繪、眼角色塊、頰彩等,或與服裝相襯,或為裝飾一角。Tom Ford品牌設計師說,「設計其實就是說故事。」在主打春夏季的服飾中,運用了比往年更多的運動服飾質材和設計,展現整體飄逸的同時,以合身剪裁顯出高挑與身段。同時,街頭元素和塗鴉墨點也被廣泛利用在不同品牌的創新之中。

New York came alive in Septem­ber, with the 2018 spring and sum­mer fash­ion show sweep­ing away the greys of win­ter with bright con­trast­ing colours fea­tur­ing flo­rals, new lines and in­spi­ra­tional cuts. Fash­ion is of­ten seen as art, with an em­pha­sis on each piece of the out­fit and the per­fect ac­ces­sories. How­ever, this year’s fo­cus is on the en­sem­ble as a whole, with the model’s fa­cial fea­tures also be­ing in­te­grated as part of the art.

The ex­ag­ger­ated makeup of the past was re­placed with a more sub­tle artistry us­ing blocks of eye shadow, with cheek and lip colour to ei­ther com­ple­ment or com­plete the en­sem­ble. As de­signer Tom Ford says, “De­sign­ing is ac­tu­ally telling a story.” The new ways of us­ing makeup at the 2018 NYFW shows that faces are an im­por­tant part of the story. There were also more sport style fab­rics used in the sum­mer out­fits than in pre­vi­ous years, help­ing to re­veal the el­e­gance and grace of the wearer with pre­cise cuts and fit­tings. Street el­e­ments such as graf­fiti were also utilised by many la­bels.

Os­car de la Renta 講究剪裁和奢華,卻注入亮色塗鴉襯出流行的街頭風格,其小禮服運用漸變色層製造視覺感,一如既往的柔美讓品牌再佔上風。De­sigual 新任藝術創意總監 Jean-paul Goude 本身就是創意藝術家及視覺設計者,他加強了服裝設計中的藝術感,與其說模特走秀,倒不如說,那是一件件前衛風格的藝術品。

TSE 品牌利用紡織品中得到的靈感,重新詮釋時尚的藝術,同時受到藝術家 El Anat­sui 環保概念的啟發,EI運用無數瓶蓋製成的雕塑,配以物品的天然色調,這啟發了TSE以手工鉤針編織線圈製造服飾中層疊的立體感,成為該時尚秀的亮點。

Os­car de la Renta’s cre­ations em­pha­sised opu­lence and qual­ity tai­lor­ing, while still in­cor­po­rat­ing bright graf­fiti de­signs to give his col­lec­tion an edgy street style. A mini gown was lay­ered us­ing gra­di­ents of colour, cre­at­ing a unique vis­ual im­pact, ce­ment­ing the de­signer’s place as a fash­ion leader. De­sigual’s new cre­ative di­rec­tor Jean-paul Goude, orig­i­nally a cre­ative arts di­rec­tor, de­signer and il­lus­tra­tor, brought a new edge to the la­bel’s de­signs. In­stead of the usual cat­walk pa­rade, each model was re­vealed on the stage, as if un­veil­ing new works of art to the world.

TSE draws in­spi­ra­tion from tex­tiles to rein­vent the art of fash­ion. In­flu­enced by artist El Anat­sui’s elab­o­rate sculp­tures com­prised of count­less re­cy­cled bot­tle caps and nat­u­ral colour­ing, the la­bel’s hand­stitched and wo­ven coils brought a 3D ef­fect to their stun­ning cre­ations which were a high­light of the show.

設計其實就是說故事。-- Tom Ford 品牌設計師

Michael Kors made a bold move and utilised neu­tral tones of brown, black and white - de­spite the sub­dued pal­ette, the de­signs shone with bril­liance. Keep­ing the use of black to a min­i­mum, the neu­tral tones high­lighted a light sum­mer style.

Each of the global fash­ion weeks, New York, Paris, Milan and Lon­don com­ple­ment one an­other and the four to­gether have a world-wide in­flu­ence. Nearly one hun­dred la­bels and de­sign­ers came to­gether in a cel­e­bra­tion of cre­ativ­ity, each with their own dis­tinc­tive style. The sheer di­ver­sity of tal­ent and imag­i­na­tion on show en­sured that spec­ta­tors will be in­spired for some time to come yet!

De­sign­ing is ac­tu­ally telling a story. -- De­signer Tom Ford

Michael Kors 設計師大膽使用各家都避開的素色,卻展露頭角,顏色雖素但去除厚重的黑層,每一款設計擁有夏日的輕與薄。

紐約時裝週是世界四大時裝週之一,與巴黎、米蘭、倫敦時裝週一同引領全球時尚,相輔相成、相互呼應。或許走在春夏之際,近百個時尚品牌和設計師,各家的風格全然不同,有人歸納為「撞色」造成的視覺衝擊成為整個秀場的一大亮點。所謂,一家一時尚,讓看官看亮了眼,卻看不到底,成為新風格。

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