Cartier: The Exhibition
One of the largest and most successful Cartier exhibitions in history is currently showing at the National Gallery of Australia (NGA) in Canberra. Showcasing original jewellery from the royal families of Britain, Monaco and Qatar, Dame Elizabeth Taylor and from Indian nobility, this premier exhibition brings together more than 300 of Cartier’s most memorable pieces. "The exhibition is not just about jewellery, the exquisite craftsmanship and story behind every piece are also incredible highlights," Gerard Vaughan, NGA Director told us.
世界最頂級的珠寶展 Cartierthe Exhibition在堪培拉國立美術館展出，可謂款款皆珍品，件件均無價。陳列的珠寶包括來自英國皇室、摩洛哥皇室、女星伊麗莎白‧泰勒、印度豪門貴族等300多件舉世無雙的珍藏版精品。
「展覽的內涵不止是觀賞珠寶，精美的手工藝和每一件珠寶背後的故事都是令人驚嘆的亮點」國家美術館館長 Gerard Vaughan說道。
If you don’t see this show, you’ll never have another opportunity to see anything like it again in your lifetime!
One of the highlights of the exhibition is a stunning sapphire pendant that belonged to Queen Maria of Romania. “When Russia invaded Romania in the early 20th century, the royal family was forced to flee. As their funds ran low, they had to sell off their treasures in order to survive so their jewellery was acquired by many different people,” said an NGA spokesperson.
Louis-francois Cartier began a family jewellery business in 1847 with his brothers, Jacques and Pierre. Together they quickly established the Cartier brand as a top jewellery house. The first Cartier retail store opened in Paris in 1899. Branches were quickly established overseas, with a store opening in London in 1902 and another in New York in 1909. In 1970 the brand commenced a worldwide re-collection mission for a special heritage collection which was officially launched in 1983 as the Cartier Collection.
珠寶品牌 Cartier 是 1847 年由Louis-francois Cartier 創立，屬於家族生意的一部分，創始人與他兩位兄弟 Jacques 和 Pierre 聯手，很快就將品牌打造成為一個頂級珠寶帝國。Cartier旗艦店於1899年在巴黎開幕， 1902 年和 1909 年又分別入駐倫敦和紐約。1970 年時，Cartier 品牌開始在全球找尋散落在民間的頂級珠寶首飾，並於 1983 年設立 Cartier 收藏系列。
More than 30 sponsors have combined forces to bring this special exhibition to the nation’s capital. Some of the items on display come from the Cartier Heritage Collection, while the British and Monaco royal families have loaned pieces, as have many private collectors. “Her Majesty the Queen has been incredibly generous and for the first time ever, we are able to feature a group of important Cartier jewels from the Queen’s collection. These have never been lent for a public exhibition before. The Queen’s favourite Williamson brooch is here - this uncut pink diamond, when she acquired it in 1947, it was the biggest pink diamond in the world. She has worn it to many weddings, including that of Prince Charles and Princess Diana, and more recently to William and Kate’s wedding.” Gerard Vaughan explains that borrowing from royalty is a complicated process. “There is a lengthy consultation process with the family - if a piece is on loan, what are the alternatives if there is an occasion for the family to attend? We did know that Meghan wouldn’t be wearing the halo tiara that Kate wore for her wedding as that is here in Canberra.”
這次展出中的部分展品來自Cartier 的收藏系列，同時來自英國女王和皇室成員，摩洛哥公主及多項私人收藏等，超過30位支持者提供了贊助。 「女王陛下非常慷慨，盡量滿足我們的借寶需求，展出中的粉鑽石胸針，是當時查理斯王儲和威廉王子大婚時女王佩戴的。還有一個非常耀眼的頭飾，女王的父親贈與她母親的，在女王18 歲時，其母轉送給了她，那就是威廉王子大婚時凱特王妃所佩戴在皇冠上的那個。」 Gerard Vaughan 表示，在這次舉世無雙的展出中，與皇室借寶是一個複雜的過程，「為期約 4個月 Cartier 展覽，英國皇室需要仔細審查女王和皇家女眷的行程，例如，前幾週亨利王子的婚禮，因為這個展出，女王就無法再佩戴這個粉鑽石胸針。」
“There is no commercial relationship between us and Cartier. We have curated it ourselves and all the decisions regarding the exhibitions are ours.” Dr Vaughan said that there was an extensive preparation process - the exhibition was three years in the making. The initial idea was an exhibition that showcased the best of early 20th century design, and Cartier was the leading contender as the height of craftsmanship and luxury. “All other Parisian and London jewellery houses were very ordinary compared to the innovation of Cartier, from both the design and the practical perspective.”
“We’ve chosen the timescale very carefully, from 1900 to 1975. This is the moment where the Maison Cartier rose to become the dominant house of the world. We are telling a story of design, a story of craftsmanship, and a story of social history,” said Gerard. “You can walk through the exhibition and every piece in the collection has a story behind it.”
Cartier is very popular in China due to their many stores throughout the country - China is in fact the largest consumer of Cartier jewellery. Although there are plans for a Cartier exhibition in China in the future, Gerard says that the Canberra exhibition is bigger and better than they ever thought it could be. “In global terms, this is one of the greatest jewellery exhibitions that has ever been held featuring the work of Cartier. This kind of exhibition cannot be replicated, and it is completely unique to Canberra.”
「作為國家公眾機構，整個展覽與商業無關，是國立美術館的獨立運作」。Gerard Vaughan 表示，整個 Cartier 展覽的準備期長達三年，「當國立美術館決定籌備頂級的珠寶展時，自然就想到了 Cartier，因為非 Cartier 品牌莫屬。」
「我們根據 Cartier 的名單，仔細推敲每一件珠寶，所選擇的首飾大多集中在 1900-1950 年間，它能反映出當時人們的社交禮儀、世界形式、歷史背景以及首飾擁有者的生活。」 Gerard Vaughan 說。
Gerard 稱，目前 Cartier 受到華人的熱捧，中國是潛在的最大銷售市場，所以 Cartier 公司也有意在未來的某個時期去中國舉辦展覽，「遺憾的是，不管未來是在中國，或是在或在世界上任何地方舉辦 Cartier展，都不可能擁有像今天這樣的展覽規模了」。Gerard Vaughan 表示，許多展品僅此一站。
「英國王室和一些私人收藏家對澳洲特別照顧，將該類無價之寶出借給展覽中心，那是從來沒有過的事，連該品牌的收藏總監都認為，堪培拉的這次展覽令 Cartier 公司感到非常榮幸。」 Cartier - The Exhibition堪培拉國立美術館展覽至7 月 22 日National Gallery of Australia
Cartier Paris Tiara 1914, platinum, diamonds, pearls, onyx, enamel, 4.3 cm (height at centre).
(Above) Cartier LondonTiara 1937, platinum, diamonds, aquamarines, 5 cm (height at centre), (Right) Cartier ParisPendant 1913, platinum, sapphire, diamonds
Sa Majesté la Reine Elizabeth II, 1953
Cartier London Nizam of Hyderabadnecklace 1935 platinum, diamonds, 38.5 cm (length) lent by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II
Cartier LondonWilliamson brooch 1953 special order, platinum, diamonds, pink diamond 10 x 5.5 cm, lent by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II
19 世紀初，Cartier 珠寶設計師曾越洋過海到中國，受到啟發，設計一系列東方的飾品 19世紀的時鐘，被認為是當時的鐘錶產品的天才作品，透明的鐘盤看不到一個零件，在擰緊發條後準確的運轉，一直到現在都被視為「未知的時鐘」，一款偉大的藝術品。(Far left) Elizabeth Taylor wearing her Cartier ruby and diamond necklace and earrings in Las Vegas, 1958,
(Opposite page) Cartier Paris Tiara 1905, special order, platinum, diamonds, 6.58 cm (height at centre) Cartier Paris Lily stomacher brooch 1906, special order, platinum, diamonds, 27 cm (length each branch) Lady Edwina Mountbatten wears the Cartier ParisTutti Frutti bandeau 1928 split into two bracelets, platinum, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, diamonds, lent through the generosity of William and Judith, and Douglas and James Bollinger, on long-term loan to Victoria and Albert Museum, London PHOTO: VINCENT WULVERYCK, CARTIER COLLECTION, © CARTIER PHOTO: NILS HERRMANN, CARTIER COLLECTION, © CARTIER