Serv­ing up Tokyo

Who bet­ter to con­sult for restau­rant and bar rec­om­men­da­tions than a chef? Vogue asks Aus­tralian chefs do­ing their thing in Tokyo where to eat, drink and be merry.

VOGUE Australia - - Voyage -

With a pop­u­la­tion of more than 13 mil­lion to feed ev­ery day (plus an ex­tra two mil­lion or so work­ers and stu­dents com­mut­ing daily from out­side the city), Tokyo’s food scene is fiercely com­pet­i­tive. There are a stag­ger­ing 227 Miche­lin-starred restau­rants in Tokyo (mak­ing it eas­ily the most starred city in the world, and, yes, that in­cludes Paris), count­less tiny neigh­bour­hood din­ers and noo­dle joints, and plenty of great op­tions be­tween ei­ther end of the price scale.

Nav­i­gat­ing this man-eat-fish world is a tableau of Aus­tralian chefs who have set up shop in Ja­pan’s cap­i­tal. There’s Jonathan Barthelmess and Sam Christie, who last year launched an out­post of Syd­ney’s Apollo restau­rant in Ginza, in­tro­duc­ing Ja­pan to mod­ern Greek fare. Christie also launched Lon­grain Tokyo in Ebisu just days be­fore this is­sue went on sale, to add to his Lon­grains in Syd­ney and Mel­bourne. (Barthelmess and Christie have long been ob­sessed with Ja­pan: in 2014 they cre­ated Cho Cho San, their in­ter­pre­ta­tion of a Ja­panese iza­kaya, in Syd­ney’s Potts Point.) And in April, Gio­vanni and En­rico Par­adiso and Marco Am­brosino, of Fratelli Par­adiso in Potts Point and 10 Wil­liam Street in Syd­ney’s Padding­ton, opened Fratelli Par­adiso Ja­pan in Tokyo’s Omote­sando Hills com­plex, be­tween the Aoyama fash­ion district and the teen epi­cen­tre Hara­juku.

Then there’s long-time Tokyo vis­i­tor Neil Perry, who, as culi­nary and brand direc­tor of Rock­pool Din­ing Group, has spent plenty of time in Tokyo, in­clud­ing con­duct­ing culi­nary re­search in De­cem­ber last year, bring­ing back ideas that are mak­ing their way onto the menus at his Saké Restau­rant & Bar and its younger sib­ling, Saké Jr.

Here they re­veal where they go to eat (be­sides their own restau­rants, of course) and the bars and iza­kaya tav­erns in which they like to un­wind across this mas­sive me­trop­o­lis.

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