Caber­nets far from mid­dling

Western Suburbs Weekly - - Wine -

AUS­TRALIAN caber­net sauvi­gnons have never been bet­ter, no mat­ter what the price range.

There are now eight or 10 South Aus­tralian and West Aus­tralian winer­ies con­sis­tently re­leas­ing caber­net sauvi­gnons that are be­yond any­thing ex­cept those one or two that our great­est wine­mak­ers oc­ca­sion­ally achieved in the past.

These wines get the pub­lic­ity but the caber­nets in the rea­son­ably priced ranges are also bet­ter drink­ing and cel­lar­ing propo­si­tions than be­fore.

It is be­com­ing very clear that while the wine­mak­ers and press loved and praised WA’s 2007 to 2010 caber­nets, the 2011 of­fer­ings were su­pe­rior.

Then came 2012 and this was cer­tainly Mar­garet River’s great­est caber­net vintage ever.

Our State’s early drink­ing 2013 reds are be­ing re­leased and these too will pro­vide ex­cit­ing cur­rent drink­ing and midterm cel­lar­ing

The Woodlands rea­son­ably priced Mar­garet River Caber­net Mer­lot 2013 is just one ex­am­ple.

As with the Xanadu DJL Caber­net Sauvi­gnon ($26), this is a se­ri­ous wine. It is full, dense and long, with light savoury nu­ances that add com­plex­ity. The lin­ger­ing fruit char­ac­ters in­di­cate fruit qual­ity well be­yond ex­pec­ta­tions of this price range.

The wine­mak­ing has then added the tex­ture, fin­ish and af­ter­taste that are at a se­ri­ous wine qual­ity level and this will im­prove un­til 2025 if cel­lared: 18.3 points and RRP $26.50.

Jeff Burch’s Howard Park are also re­leas­ing some mar­vel­lous and value 2013 reds.

His 2013 Mar­garet River Le­ston Caber­net Sauvi­gnon is an ex­cep­tional and de­li­cious re­sult of mod­ern wine­mak­ing.

While hav­ing young, full, dense and long caber­net fruit char­ac­ters, it is mod­ern, fra­grant and pretty, with vi­brancy.

It shows classy oak han­dling that leaves enough gen­tle and per­sis­tent fine tan­nin to add char­ac­ter to the clas­si­cally styled fin­ish and af­ter­taste.

The fruit qual­ity is ex­cep­tional for a wine in this price range and the tast­ing notes, from a sig­nif­i­cant masked caber­net line-up, in­cluded the terms mar­vel­lous, de­li­cious, lovely, classy and clas­sic: 18.5 points, RRP $46 and very close to the finest Le­ston Caber­net yet.

With John Jens

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