De-stin­guished fam­ily

Western Suburbs Weekly - - Wine - with John Jens

FOR more than 10 years, the Deen De Bor­toli range of De Bor­toli wines, across half a dozen white and red va­ri­eties, has matched the very best of Aus­tralia’s quite con­sid­er­able, in world terms, wine value.

The range con­sis­tently pro­vides de­li­cious bal­anced mouth­fuls of flavour that is ex­cep­tional value for money.

I un­der­stand the English wine writ­ers who com­plain that rea­son­ably priced Aus­tralian chardon­nay is bor­ing, be­cause much of it is, but not this.

I also feel that I un­der­stood The Week­end Aus­tralian Re­view wine cor­re­spon­dent Max Allen, who some years ago wrote: “Yes, I know I rec­om­mend De Bor­toli’s wines quite a lot. But the com­pany keeps com­ing out with stun­ning value bot­tles I feel com­pelled to tell you about.”

The De Bor­toli wine group was es­tab­lished by Vit­to­rio De Bor­toli in the 1920s, then largely built into what it is to­day un­der the guid­ance of his son, Deen and now his grand­chil­dren.

These days, with an an­nual crush of over 70,000 tonnes (or nearly 5 mil­lion cases and more than 4 per cent of Aus­tralia’s wine pro­duc­tion) the com­pany is big­ger than any of Pen­folds, Rose­mount, Lin­de­mans or Wynns and yet they qui­etly re­main fam­ily owned and con­trolled.

The WA an­nual grape crush is un­der 60,000 tonnes.

In a re­cent masked line-up, the 2014 Deen De Bor­toli Vat 7 chardon­nay shone for its price against dozens of other Aus­tralian chardon­nays.

It is full, dense and very long for a wine in the price range, with a touch of bal­anc­ing dry vis­cos­ity for body and com­plex­ity.

This will be lovely drink­ing through the Christ­mas pe­riod and right through un­til 2017.

If you can hold it, by late 2016 and 2017 this will taste like a $25$35 chardon­nay. 17.9 points. RRP $14.95 and of­ten be­low $12.

De Bor­toli Wines di­rec­tors Dar­ren, Kevin, Emeri, Leanne and Vic­tor De Bor­toli.

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