Sib­lings’ Shore thing

Western Suburbs Weekly - - Food -

IT takes the piz­zazz of Scotty and Ange Tay­lor, the dy­namic brother and sis­terly duo be­hind Perth’s new­est beach­side eatery, to add a buzz­word to our culi­nary ver­nac­u­lar.

“Hamp­tonesque” is the de­scrip­tive tag waft­ing through the western sub­urbs as hip­sters cram into grey leather booths with Lady-Lunch-A-Lots and surfer dudes to sam­ple the breezy white­washed charms of The Shore­house. Gone and quickly for­got­ten

is the old Naked Fig as pun­ters wel­come in a fresh new era of yel­low and white striped um­brel­las, a cop­per bath­tub, high ta­bles that leave your feet dan­gling and a spank­ing great Josper oven.

Scotty shrugs off the Hamp­tonesque la­bel, adding he and Ange were af­ter a time­less, clas­sic sea­side vibe with a bit of Cape Cod thrown in.

“Sort of like din­ers might ex­pect to see JFK and a breath­less Mar­i­lyn Mon­roe rock up,” he said.

In­deed, on a busy Fri­day there were a few breath­less blondes gasp­ing over the McHenry Hohnen Burn­side chardon­nay and over the pre­sen­ta­tion.

I’ve eaten a lot of oys­ters in my time, but never have they been served on smooth peb­bles in a glass tank topped with three long glass eye­drop­pers to squirt on house-made dress­ings.

If only the oys­ters, Cof­fin Bay and Smoky Bay, had mea­sured up to the fan­fare.

Tiger prawns, how­ever, did the trick with their smokey, char­coa­ley lick of flavours.

But it is not all about seafood and din­ers would be in­sane if they didn’t choose a Har­vey scotch fil­let or short ribs from the Josper se­lec­tion.

Chef Oliver Gould, for­merly from Mel­bourne’s Stoke­house, has slipped into his new beach­side possie like a hand in a silk glove.

His dish of lo­cal sil­ver whit­ing with man­do­lined potato crisps was an out and out win­ner; fresh enough to take you back to child­hood days of dan­gling the line from a boat at Rotto.

The in­te­rior of The Shore­house might all be about the Hamp­tons, but the food at its heart, is pure, unadul­ter­ated Sand­groper.

With Gail Wil­liams

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