Siblings’ Shore thing
IT takes the pizzazz of Scotty and Ange Taylor, the dynamic brother and sisterly duo behind Perth’s newest beachside eatery, to add a buzzword to our culinary vernacular.
“Hamptonesque” is the descriptive tag wafting through the western suburbs as hipsters cram into grey leather booths with Lady-Lunch-A-Lots and surfer dudes to sample the breezy whitewashed charms of The Shorehouse. Gone and quickly forgotten
is the old Naked Fig as punters welcome in a fresh new era of yellow and white striped umbrellas, a copper bathtub, high tables that leave your feet dangling and a spanking great Josper oven.
Scotty shrugs off the Hamptonesque label, adding he and Ange were after a timeless, classic seaside vibe with a bit of Cape Cod thrown in.
“Sort of like diners might expect to see JFK and a breathless Marilyn Monroe rock up,” he said.
Indeed, on a busy Friday there were a few breathless blondes gasping over the McHenry Hohnen Burnside chardonnay and over the presentation.
I’ve eaten a lot of oysters in my time, but never have they been served on smooth pebbles in a glass tank topped with three long glass eyedroppers to squirt on house-made dressings.
If only the oysters, Coffin Bay and Smoky Bay, had measured up to the fanfare.
Tiger prawns, however, did the trick with their smokey, charcoaley lick of flavours.
But it is not all about seafood and diners would be insane if they didn’t choose a Harvey scotch fillet or short ribs from the Josper selection.
Chef Oliver Gould, formerly from Melbourne’s Stokehouse, has slipped into his new beachside possie like a hand in a silk glove.
His dish of local silver whiting with mandolined potato crisps was an out and out winner; fresh enough to take you back to childhood days of dangling the line from a boat at Rotto.
The interior of The Shorehouse might all be about the Hamptons, but the food at its heart, is pure, unadulterated Sandgroper.