Western Suburbs Weekly - - Weekly Life - with Gail Wil­liams

THERE is a brac­ingly fresh breeze waft­ing through Clare­mont and it’s laced with star anise, cin­na­mon, co­rian­der and gin­ger.

Its name is Miss Chow and she is con­fi­dent, edgy, un­pre­ten­tious and sassy – just the tonic for the high­pro­file Clare­mont Quar­ter site, which housed the ill-fated Bel­uga and Feast of Flow­ers pop-up.

Who then is this Miss Chow and why has she got the lo­cals all ex­cit­edly scram­bling to get a ta­ble in her dumpling house?

Ac­cord­ing to the menu, she is the daugh­ter of Mr Moon Chow, a leg­endary Chi­nese im­mi­grant whose dumplings were so scrump­tious that when he shared them with a pretty French woman one night, she fell un­der his spell and they mar­ried soon af­ter.

Their daugh­ter in­her­ited his se­cret recipe and now urges cus­tomers to eat the fa­mous dumplings with a swig of French cham­pagne.

But the dumplings are fab­u­lous, even when washed down with plain old Rare Earth Cab Mer­lot.

So are the pork buns – fluffy lit­tle pil­lows brim­ming with steaming shreds of pork. Tex­tu­rally ex­cit­ing too, is the salt and pep­per tofu, of­ten the af­ter­thought in a Chi­nese ban­quet.

And then there is the glim­mer and gloss of just-wilted Asian greens and sat­is­fy­ingly sticky steamed white rice.

All of it comes on Miss Chow’s smooth black ce­ram­ics and bears an un­mis­take­able Ap­ple Daily stamp.

Up un­til last week the chef was An­drew Moore, for­mer mae­stro at Print Hall’s pop­u­lar ode to Asian street food.

His mantra of fresh, sea­sonal pro­duce was very much on show in dishes such as chop chop chicken and steamed bar­ra­mundi fil­let, with black beans, gin­ger and shal­lot the per­fect side­kick for a suc­cu­lent, melt-in-them-outh fil­let.

The only dis­ap­point­ment was not meet­ing the elu­sive Miss Chow.

Per­haps she was off drink­ing cham­pagne with Lucky Chan.

Now that would be a mar­riage made in heaven.

Some of the del­i­ca­cies served by Miss Chow in Clare­mont Quar­ter.

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