Cape’s cru­sader

Western Suburbs Weekly - - Wine -

THE 2014 Cape Men­telle Chardon­nay is clearly the win­ery’s finest to date.

It is one of the bet­ter value drink­ing Mar­garet River chardon­nays (but will im­prove un­til 2025 and be­yond) and at un­der $50, it is 50 per cent to 60 per cent of its qual­ity peer’s prices.

Founder David Hohnen’s faith in caber­net sau­vi­gnon was ini­tially vin­di­cated with his con­sec­u­tive Jimmy Wat­son Tro­phy wins in 1983 and 1984 (WA’s first for Aus­tralia’s most sought af­ter wine tro­phy) and then by the win­ery’s two golden pe­ri­ods in the early ’90s and then with the clas­sic re­leases since 2008.

Most of its re­cent chardon­nays have also gained gold medal points (av­er­age 18.3 points) on my tast­ing notes, even though I have con­sis­tently rated the re­cent caber­nets more highly (av­er­age 18.9-19 pts since 2008).

This clearly topped the val­ues lately in some masked chardon­nay line-ups that in­cluded some of Aus­tralia’s most re­cently lauded show and na­tional re­view win­ners.

“Long, bal­anced and de­li­cious. Nougat, hazel­nut and pis­ta­chio. Finely judged lees and bar­rel char­ac­ters add com­plex­ity and won­der­ful tex­ture to the high qual­ity fruit’s re­strained power and ex­cep­tional length. Fin­ishes with a firm but fine tan­nined lin­ger­ing af­ter­taste.”

Just re­leased. Avail­able at Swan­bourne Cel­lars.

18.7 points RRP $49

The Wine Ad­vo­cate editor-in-chief Lisa Per­rotti-Brown, John Jens and wine writer Ch'ng Poh Tiong at Cape Men­telle.

With John Jens

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